Guys Climbing & Skiing Blog

2010-12-06T08:56:00.002+01:00

New website is now up, take a look! www.pureoutdoor.co.uk

Peak District Ski Season

2010-12-03T10:45:00.004+01:00

3rd December : Mam Tor Ski

So the wind had scoured the slopes a bit. And there was a lot more snow in Sheffield but we went out to Mam Tor in the Peak for the second day of Peak Skiing. Fun fun fun!

Perfect days on the Grit

2010-11-19T13:11:00.003+01:00

We have had some unique and beautiful days here on the grit this week. Some wet ones too! Here is Sam on the Deliverance Traverse. So close...

Going to the Lakes this weekend to work, Kendal Film Festival is on which should be fun. Out to Chamonix on Monday for a few days!

Berghaus Adventure Challenge Shortlist : Mount Hayes Expedition

2010-11-04T19:34:00.004+01:00

Wow, a good day in the office (via the Climbing Works), my workout was cut short by my eagerness to get back to the computer to promote the fact that we have been shortlisted for the Berghaus Adventure Challenge 2011.

Please could you take a second to vote for us, all you need to do is hit the button - no need to fill any forms in!

The link is here: http://www.berghaus.com/en/adventure-challenge/shortlists

This is what we are planning on doing:

The British Mount Hayes Expedition 2011

The proposed adventure, due in May 2011 is to complete a full traverse of the large and remote Mount Hayes (4216m) in eastern Alaska. For this mountaineering adventure, the party of 3 aim to travel by air taxi to the nearest glacial approach then travel by ski to establish a base camp. The group will seek the best conditions to establish the best route to achieve the objective. A full traverse of this rarely climbed mountain would be the first of its kind. it is likely that the party will come across significant but achievable mountaineering and skiing challenges.

Thanks for voting.

Gritstone Freedom

2010-11-03T22:08:00.003+01:00

We have had some really mixed weather recently. Autumn is definitely turning to winter here in the Peak.

Gavin, Rick and I have got a bit of spare time this week so watch this space for some Esoteric and worked Grit routes that we just cant wait to get stuck into next week!

We went out in the drizzle today and top-roped Pebble Mill (E5 6B) until it got too wet. Really great fun looking at pushing the grade a bit. More of this please!

Pebble Mill, Slippery when wet... Easier if you are tall!

Yosemite Cowboys : The Arrogance of Youth without Stubborness of Age.

2010-09-24T10:48:00.010+02:00

24th September : Yosemite Cowboys : The Arrogance of Youth without Stubborness of Age.

A couple of days after returning from 'the valley' and a bit of reflection time is needed. What a great holiday. Byron and I set out for 3 weeks after a 6-8 months of learning, thinking and dreaming of climbing some big walls in Yosemite.

Over the 3 weeks we had a bit of a roller-coaster. During the first week there was a heat wave in the valley at around 95-100 degrees. Sticky weather to be training for aid climbing in. Our confidence far outweighed our ability and as Stinger (Top Gun) would say:

"Son, your ego is writing checks your body can't cash. You've been busted, you lost your qualifications as section leader three times, put in hack twice by me, with a history of high speed passes over five air control towers, and one admiral's daughter! "

I guess this slowed us down heaps. We were taking twice as long to aid through long A1 pitches as we had hoped. A bit disheartened with our 'road to the nose' we decided to go for trip on Snake Dyke (aka Snake Hike) which involves a 15 mile round trip hike with 600ft of 5.7-5.4 climbing. Great fun and as we got higher, the breeze cooled us off.

A few more days out cragging and cranking up some of the 5* jamming routes in the valley and a trip on Washington Column was due. Washington Column is a 600m Big Wall and is deemed one of the easier Big Walls in Yosemite valley.

On our first trip we took Tina (the pig/haul bag) out for a spin. Hauling was not so bad, getting caught up every now and then. This is a little bit like car -camping of the climbing world. Without too much difficulty we made it to Dinner Ledge where we met a couple of other Brit's struggling with strong winds getting over Kor roof. We decided to chill at the ledge for the night as they played on higher up. That afternoon, as I was eagerly awaiting 'Stagg Chilli Opening Time', I was alerted by the familiar noise of fluttering rocks.

Looking up, about half a dozen rocks came flying down nearly missing both Byron and I (I had dived for Byrons helmet at this stage, sorry Byron). That was a close one, we deemed these trade routes quite safe from rockfall, there were no parites above us. Leave us alone mountain!

That afternoon, we kept one eye looking up, bad vibes, we abbed on down.

A day after, we met a couple of yanks that we had chatted to as we set off on the column, one of them was called Chuck, a great name! They greeted us with "I thought you guys were dead maaaaan", as they reported the rockfall to look a fair amount bigger from their angle as they rested high on the Prow. These fellas were the real deal, 'Piratical' bearded, portaledged, bandana'd and lots of 'psyche homey'. They smashed back cans of bud at the crag and were generally legendary!

Coming down from Washington Column, Half Dome N Face in the background.

Jugging up to Tina

Back at base camp we got stuck into 'King Cobra' 75c beers and jumped back and forth over the fire pondering out next move. We wanted to jump on the nose, but something was holding us back (common sense). Several parties hard already been on, failing fairly low. Due to being too slow.

We were getting quicker but needed to learn more. We got back on Washington Column.

This time, we moved fast through the first few pitches and arrived at the large ledge again. Only Kor roof was in our way. We aimed to fix to pitch 5 that night then we could 'jug' the ropes and climb to the 9th pitch the following day.

That afternoon, I spent an exciting hour and a half or so swinging around 300-400m from the valley floor aiding bolt to bolt to the lip of the roof. Over the roof you go for it to a blind pocket. Using a bit of muscle memory I slotted the no.0 DMM friend and up you go, another size 0 metolius mastercam and you are off. A rising traverse continues for another 10-12m to an intermediate belay. It is important to protect your second here, as it is just a little too easy to slot no.1 friends in all the way along the aid crack and then back clean.

I stopped at the intermediate stance. Fairly wired, fairly excited, I had just experienced the most absorbing time of my life. An hour or so later and Byron's legs are seen swinging round and around under the roof! Wow, he must be having a hell of a time, its pretty exposed right there! I finally saw his head stick over the lip.....ahh the familiar face. I have seen that one before. The last time I came across this particular Mr.Buck expression was when Byron had inverted once in North Wales. This was not a good face.

The awesome, Kor Roof.

Chilling on the ledge

I had been hanging around for a little while, we were both fairly wired by this awesome experience. We decided to give the 5th pitch a miss until the next day. We abseiled over the roof back to the bivvy ledge.

That night, it didn't take much for us to hang up the aid gear, the fifi was cut from the harness and it was game over. We love free climbing, aid climbing feels slow and involves hating life. At least that was our attitude at the time. I think now we have learned so much about aiding and the mind-set you need to be in. I think we will go back, in-fact we have started to plan the trip already. Spring/Autumn 2012. Now we know what we need to know, we can train better.

All in all, an awesome trip! Back at camp 4, we chilled for a bit went cragging and then got the bus to Vegas. Lets go on holiday!

Aid Routes:

La Escuela (El Capitan base) Pitch 1 A1

Pacific Ocean Wall (El Capitan base) Pitch 1 A1

Washington Column to Dinner Ledge (take 1)

Washington Column to top of Kor Roof (take 2)

Free Routes:

All sorts on Swan Slab, near Camp 4

Snake Dyke

Bishops Terrace, Church Bowl Buttress

Church Bowl Lie Back

After 7, Manure Pile Buttress

I am going to write a little article on 'the Camp 4 Craic' as it takes a wee while to work out the best way to do/wangle everything there. It did only take us a couple of nights of 'King Cobra' beers before we plucked up the courage to start chasing bears in the woods!

Freddie the bear even came out in the day time.

Waiting for the rangers to 'pop a cap in his ass'

During our time in the Valley 'Steve' climbed El Capitan. An amazing feat:

http://abcnews.go.com/WN/stephen-wampler-cerebral-palsy-climbs-el-capitan-raise/story?id=11681750

Granite and Clotted Cream

2010-08-28T09:51:00.004+02:00

23rd-27th October : Cornwall Learn to Lead Course

Wow. What an amazing week Dave and I have just had. I was running a learn to lead climb week in Cornwall. Could not have had a better 5 days of work really. One day rained off (went indoors) and on the other days we visited Sennen, Bosigran, Lands End and Chair Ladder. Dave and I had only one cheeky evening cragging session and during the day we ticked the Classic Rock Cornwall section.

Great week with clients Dan and Antoni.

Dan on Demo Route, Sennen.

Antoni seconding Dan on Cracked Corner, Sennen.

Doorpost, Bosigran

Pen Olver, Lands End

Our final day at Chair Ladder enjoying the classic Terriers Tooth and Pendulum Chimney

Gogarth, the Pass and Climbing Life

2010-08-12T17:57:00.005+02:00

Climbing Summer

I have not posted up here for a long time. And going by the number of hits I am receiving, I assume a few of you are looking for route beta etc and searching through Google. At least all that hard work was worthwhile. Anyway, I have not given up!

Just been in the UK recently. I have had some great days out cruising with mates and working around Swanage, North Wales, Lake District, Peak Grit and the Isle of Skye. This week we have been on Gogarth, North Wales. An amazing place home to some truly absorbing adventurous climbing. Dave Chapman and I found a dry day on Dinas Mot on Monday and we did Superdirect. I have been waiting to do it for ages. It really is an amazing route!

Dave in a great position on Imitator.
(thin moves pulling onto the slab, then it eases!)

Dave at the belay on Lighthouse Arete.
(I got a soaking at the first belay!)

Yosemite Plans

We set off in a couple of weeks. Pretty psyched for it now. Byron and I have been occasionally training and climbing and talking about training (drinking tea). We have been constantly ordering kit which has made it seem like we are not spending a lot of money!

I think we have our system fairly nailed. It is just a case of doing it lots. I have spoke to a few people who have done the Nose this week and they have been really good to have a chat to.

I was planning on climbing about 30 E1's this summer in preparation for our trip. I have not quite achieved this but the list is now around 25 multipitch E1-E2's. Maybe this autumn will bring some trips to Cornwall and Pembroke.

I am going to Cornwall with work next week and am really looking forward to it. I have just bought the new copy of 'West Country Climbs' , another beautiful book from Rockfax. This covers all that you would expect plus Swanage and a nice little section on Lundy. I am working for Highpoint Mountain Guides on a learn to lead week, so driving aside - should be fun.

Alaska

Alaska plans are fairly slow, if anyone has any inspiration or knowledge or great photos about possible new ascents/descents in the St.Elias range, be in touch. Next stop the Alpine Club library in London.

In the words of Mr.Kirkus, Lets go climbing!

Guy

Millstone Aid Continues

2010-07-13T18:47:00.002+02:00

Another day out on the Grit today... "It'll never catch on!'

This time we have got our system fairly nailed. We focused on testing gear. This involves jumping up on down on the gear to see if it pops out. To be honest.... it is hilarious fun!

Swanage Climbing

2010-07-01T18:31:00.003+02:00

Loose top-outs on Cormorant Ledge

Abseiling into Guillemot

Wow, It is wild down here!

First time for me on Swanage, serious rock type / soap and head game issues!

Still, a great 2 days spent in Swanage climbing with Rick.

The Wall (HS, 4B.. believe it or not!) Steep, steep, steep

Cormorant Ledge

Big Walling in the Peak

2010-06-26T23:33:00.003+02:00

26th June: Big Wall Training

After a morning of frigging around at Yarncliffe and aiding a couple of cracks. We sat back, had a think, picked up some gear and got the wisdom from Scott. We then went to Millstone (first bay) with our newly bought cord to set up our jumar systems and play with the fifi!

Playing 'Pull the Pig'

Welcome any advice here! So the jumar setup for cleaning aid pitches. Two jumars, right and left handed. One piece of 5metre 7mm cord. Right hand longer than left, one foot on lower left jumar Right jumar at arms length. Central hub connected with a larks foot to belay loop.

Byron opts to go for the higher left hand. Pretty quick and efficient. Must remember to tie rope off every 5-10m - I am sure I will be remembering to do that! Bought these locksafe carabiners for this. Counter intuitive to open so that's a relief.

Any ideas???

Originally we played with 1 fifi hook to get higher on a piece of gear and enable a more stable position when high on gear. However, played with this technique today.... Need to experiment more.

2 etriers, 2 daisy chains, 3 fifi hooks. larksfooted to harness. Ends joined with a carabiner and a fifi hook on each end. A fif hook also attached close to belay loop.

When high on the first runner... reach as high as possible and:

1) clip gear with a quickdraw and clip in rope
2) hook fifi/etrier/daisy on gear
3) test and weight gear by moving bodyweight onto etrier
4) hook harness fifi onto daisy chain for stability as move up etrier.
5) get as high on etrier as possible and place a high piece of gear
6) clip gear with a quickdraw and clip in rope
7) pull daisy chain up therefore pulling first fifi off the first piece of gear
8) Repeat. Found this pretty easy to place gear 1.5-2m away from your previous piece making progress efficient.

Out comes the pro traxion. Simple, attach pig to traxion. attach self to power point with sling (dynamic rope from lead line will be better here if you leave enough slack). Jumar attached to belay loop. Jump off wall ... repeat.

Roaches Climbing

2010-06-25T20:07:00.003+02:00

Just out for a nice day today at the Roaches with Carl. Did a few top routes including the classic Valkyrie.

Carl chilling out at the belay

The last step on Valkyrie

The Neb finish on 'Technical Slab'

A Nexus Plexus holiday with A Dream of White Horses

2010-06-24T14:54:00.003+02:00

Abseil into A Dream of White Horses

Paulo in the Concrete Chimney

The stunning final pitch, don't look down....

After our little disaster and a broken finger for me last week, we have been out quite a bit. A few bits and pieces of work and lots of play.

Sunday : Froggatt, to be expected, sweaty and warm grit! Not pleasant, still we were after slabby routes to prevent the finger strain so Byron and I did Trapeze Direct, 3 pebble slab, 4 pebble slab and 2 sided triangle.

Four pebble slab is a funny one, graded E3 5C, but I think if you are happy on slabs and can trust your feet it feels OK. The gear is reasonable too. On the other hand, it could go terribly wrong as you would hit the floor if you fell. Felt more like E2 5B.

Monday: Gogarth, had the drive over with Paulo and climbed A Dream of White Horses. Stunning situation, nice climbing. Beautiful day out.

Tuesday: Went to the shady Plexu buttress on Dinas Mot and climbed Plexus and Nexus. NExus has an amazing first pitch, great climbing and a wild 3rd pitch! Yuk, them sweaty pockets!

Wednesday: Went to work at Burbage, climbing all day! Nice day for it.

Now it is time to concentrate on some clean aid climbing with Byron. We have got out Etriers through and are going to go have a play in Thor's Cave this weekend! Cant wait!

Just another day climbing...

2010-06-17T23:54:00.004+02:00

The Fang Slab (Upside Down!)

I had another day climbing today. Just like any day climbing, we went out and enjoyed the company, fresh air, scenery, aesthetic movements and as usual achieved nothing. I am not being cynical about climbing in any way - you start at the bottom, find a difficult way to get somewhere you can walk up/down and then come down. A big circle of nothingness, ending up exactly where you started. The joy of the sport!

Today however was very special, we did all of the normal things - talked shite, pulled on some hand holds, placed gear, watched Byron take a big whipper.... except this time. We decided that hey, lets not finish the route. Lets leave all of the gear in and then try and abseil this massive overhang to get the gear out. Lets stop for a minute! What were we thinking, of course we couldn't ab the route...we would be dangling in space. We attempted anyway. What a surprise, it didn't work.

So what am I ranting on about! I think it is something to do with form. 2 days ago I was pulling through awesome moves on Vector at Tremadog, Byron and I were having an amazing time on Central Buttress at Scafell - Just yesterday I was struggling but still pulling moves out of the bag on Gogarth Main Cliff... Where did it all go wrong?

So for this very route in the peak, I think next time I will need to:

a) try harder
b) concentrate
c) not underestimate E1

Until next time route!

I haven't posted since I went to the Lakes last week but after having a great Saturday, I went over to North Wales to go climbing with a chap called Stu. Anyway, had a great couple of days and did:

Tremadog:

The Fang (HVS)
Nice top slab

Stu coming up the final arete on the Plum

The Plum (E1)
Heaps of amazing moves

Vector (E2)
Stunning, amazing, pitch 3 wow!

Gogarth:

'Gogarth' Main Cliff (E1)

A very classic Gogarth experience

Scafell Crag : Central Buttress and Leverage

2010-06-13T16:42:00.005+02:00

Leverage (E1 5B)

Since leaving Chamonix, have got settled here in Sheffield now. Excited about the summer and loads of trips planned including Lundy, Sea Stacks, Scotland Cragging and possibly Cuillins. I am now blogging work related days out on the Pure Outdoor Blog (http://www.pureoutdoor.co.uk/pureblog.php) and play related things on this blog.

Nice couple of routes on Scafell main crag yesterday.

Good to get back into the swing of things on trad leading.

A 'hard rock' route and a fantastic crag with so much mountain atmosphere Central Buttress is 6 pitches and graded E1. Though the difficulties are really getting over the 'Great Flake'.

Hard Rock Description....

Located high in the centre of the Lake District Scafell Crag has a prominent position in English climbing historically as well as geographically. From the ascent of Central Buttress in 1914 to modern routes by Dave Birkett, the crag has always been at the forefront of climbing in terms of both commitment as well as technical difficulty.

Central Buttress, initially climbed with the use of combined tactics stood for two decades as the most serious expedition in the Lakes. Affected by rockfall in 1994 the original line of Central Buttress is now E3.

After, we headed around to the East side and climbed 'Leverage' E1.

Dome de Chapeau

2010-05-23T20:34:00.002+02:00

Me on the slabs before taking a bit of downtime! 6B thin slab, not sure about the name.

23rd May

Ok, so today was the last day. Went cragging at Le Chapeau today. Awesome slabs in a great setting.

Some 'interesting' routes too!

End of season - What happened?

2010-05-22T14:33:00.007+02:00

22nd May

So I think it is safe to say that is time to move on, we had a great 18 months or so in Chamonix and got loads done. We aren't going to stick around this summer - moving back to the UK to get a bit of work and get strong on the climbing front with my mate Byron ready for Yosemite in September.

I guess it is time to think back a bit to what we have achieved this winter... It was very different than last year in a way that I worked more, the snow was not quite so epic and the climbing was not easy. Still, with the experience of my first year it meant that when we did get chance to go in the mountains we made it worthwhile. We learned a lot about conditions and how each month changes your objectives.

The highlights!

December :

Arrived in mid December, to find a decent amount of snow. It was time to get the ski legs back so spent some good days cruising around resort and especially on some tasty laps on the Plan d'Aiguille

Carl eating snow, good times at the Grand Montets.

January :

Needed to nip up to Scotland to run a couple of winter skills courses. What a season they had up there! I hear people are still ski touring high in the Cairngorms - good effort! Upon my return I was ready to get stuck into my season. Had some great runs down the Envers du Plan and the Toule glacier. Climbing conditions never seemed to be up to scratch in the mountains, and we always prefer alpine climbing rather than valley ice. So we took up steep skiing. Our first outing was the 'Dru Couloir' by accident. We were still keen to set off where we left last year and despite the temperatures high up, went ski touring. It was nice but really hard work, best to be left for late Feb > March. Our enthusiasm here took us to Mont Velan a beautiful peak I skiid past last year and the Breche Pusieux.

Plum on the Mont Velan tour

February :

I had wanted to do the Cosmiques Couloir all last season but never felt up to it, hadn't been skiing that long afterall. Anyway, february started with Plum and I skiing it in great snow. It was fantastic and really addictive. I think we found ourselves a new hobby for the winter. We were still on the look out for some winter routes to do, things were in condition but we were holding out for improvements come March. We had a load of great skiing in March, especially the Combe du Pouce with Glenn and Plum. Decided to get stuck into a bit of valley ice and climbed the direct version of the EMHM icefall from which I got a return of the chilly fingers. Good times.

The EMHM

Skiing the Combe du Pouce

March :

The snow was fantastic, great days out in Courmayeur skiing the steep trees and untracked powder. Loads of mates out this month, good to spend some time with you all! Had another steep ski on the Capucin Couloir with Andy, quality day out. Our eagerness for alpinism was still strong. We had a piss poor attempt on the Bettembourg Thivierge but a cold night and schoolboy errors got in the way. We decided to lower the grade a bit and stand on a mountain, it had been so long - we traversed the Aiguille du Chardonnet. A beautiful peak. Rick came out on his splitboard, more touring to come!

Heading for the Bettembourg Thivierge

April :

A busy month. Loads of wee trips as work had quietened down. Loads of powder still to be had on routes like the Col du Passon. unfortunately for Rick, he nipped away on a stunning week where Plum and I had the Cunningham Couloir and the Barbey Couloir (from the Aiguille d' Argentiere). More skiing with the Col de la Buche and the Col de Belvedere where Plum took a wee ride down an icy slope. The 3 cols again and some Vallee Blanche rock cragging was great fun and made for mixed adventure days out! A couple of highlights towards the end of the month was the Lafaille Goulette and we ski'd to the top of Mont Blanc! One of last years goals.

I think this month was the best! With the highlight, skiing the Barbey face from the Aiguille d'Argentiere.

Lafaille Goulette

Entering the Barbey Couloir

The 'Bosses' ridge.

May :

Back to the UK again for another taste of home. Had a weekend on Stanage before returning back to Cham. Rain had set in for the spring, but once it had cleared we had a few jollies includign the Aiguilette d'Argentiere and general cragging. Had a fantastic trip down the valley to the Pierre A Voix which hosts some fantastic sport. Recently, with some good weather Plum and I enjoyed the Burnier Vogler Couloir on the NW face of the Aiguille d'Midi. Just yesterday we attempted once again to do something a bit daft and walk into the Argentiere refuge for some more Alpinism. Unfortunately leaving ski's at home was not the best idea as there is stil la heap of warm soft snow up there!

Burnier Voger Goulette

So thanks everyone who I have been in touch with this winter for great tips & trips, route knowledge, days out and beers. Thanks to Plum for holding ropes, been a great Alpinist and top quality mountain Comrade, roll on Alaska. Thanks to Pelforth and the Vallee Blanche Bar for good apres, headaches and aborted routes. Thanks to Jennifer for good Shepherds Pie and calming my frustration when it was raining for 16 days. Thanks to all mates' in Chamonix for all good times!

It's time to move on somewhere else for more adventure. I will be back very soon as the tick list has only got longer.

Burnier Vogler Goulette

2010-05-18T21:12:00.003+02:00

17th May: Went for a ski on the Vallee Blanche to have a look at snow conditions.

18th May: Burnier Vogler Goulette : Aiguille du Midi NW Face.

At last, back into the swing of things. Somehow, the lethargy of sitting around in the valley seems to take over and ruin the 'psyche' a little. So today we chose to do a little route off the midi which we could do in a day.

Plum traversing to the start. Looking at the photo, I can't believed we skiid the couloir a couple of months ago!

A very dry/thin first ice pitch!

Once again, we abseiled off the bridge of the Midi and descended about 300m in total to the start of the Burnier Vogler Goulette. Infact, we traversed into the route from about halfway up the first pitch.

Having no knowledge of the condition, we started up the route - very little ice in the first pitch making for some interesting mixed moves. The second pitch started up nice with a good small section of 80 degree ice then ice/snow.

We moved together for what would be a couple of rope lengths to the final pitch, here we found loose snow covered rock. Not ideal, but bearable. Finished up the Cosmiques Arete. Great day out!

Plum coming up the first pitch

We moved together through the middle pitches, good snow - not to deep!

Pierre a Voix

2010-05-17T08:35:00.003+02:00

16th May

No post for a while! Have been getting down to a bit of work this month. According to Plum's 'wet/grey' calendar, it has rained every day for 16 days. I have seen the high mountains once or twice in this time. There is certainly a lot of snow dumping down high up. Have heard a few mates getting out on ski's and enjoying the poor vis powder!

Anyway, today we took a ride down the valley, found some dry rock and sun at the Pierre a Voix, just above Sallanches (20 mins from Chamonix).

An amazing little crag, a standalone monolith of rock in the trees. Grades are from 4's through to 7's with the North face being about 15m and the steep south face about 35m+.

Going for the clip

We did about 5 routes each ranging from about 5b-6a+ first real day out climbing so good to get the levers working again.

Weather has come good for now, but still a lot of snow high, so we are going to go play in the mountains these next few days.

A long walk in... Plum goes 'rock', I go 'scissors'

2010-05-08T22:12:00.005+02:00

8th May : Vallorcine Slabs and Aiguilette d'Argentiere

Weather still really mixed in the Chamonix valley. There has been a load of snow during the week and still a load of unstable snow. Shame really as the last day of the Grand Montets lift is tomorrow and we were hoping to get up and do a few routes in the Argentiere Valley.

Didnt fancy going high today so we went and pottered around the Chamonix crags. Tom joined Plum and I today with our original plan to head to Barberine, but rain in the night meant it was sopping. So we opted for the Vallorcine slabs, which were also wet but provided a bit of fun in the intermittent rain.

After doing a few pitches we decided to move on to the classic Aiguilette d;Argentiere, a fun little pinnacle about an hour from the Col du Montets. Unfortunately for us, we didnt really pay much attention to the route and ended up heading from the Col du Montets instead of the lower car park and scrambling over most types of awful terrain to get to it.

This results in a grumpy Guy and cravings for bacon sandwiches at the Petite Kitchen. As I lost 'rock,paper,scissors' Plum didn't let us go (I later discovered Plum always goes with stone)

Easy climbing on impressive rock

Stanage

2010-05-02T18:19:00.001+02:00

1st-2d May : Stanage

Back in the UK for the weekend working (http://www.pureoutdoor.co.uk) on a climbing weekend for the Royal Veterinary College Mountaineering Club.

Loads of stars ticked each day and the rain held off! We looked in detail at building quality belays and using sound, safe, systems (not getto blaster types). Some of the group also did some lead climbing - great stuff!

Christina on Black Hawk Hell crack.

Claire on Rugosity Crack

Andy at the top of Rugosity Crack.

Ski Mont Blanc

2010-04-28T14:03:00.004+02:00

The perfect companion to the route

La Jonction

27th-28th: Ski Mont Blanc via Refuge les Mulets. Route of ascent 'North Ridge of Domes du Gouter'

After waiting for the perfect weather window Plum and I set off on another adventure This time to the 'Grands Mulets' refuge from the Midi mid station, across the glacier du Bossons and la Jonction. This took about 3 hours and the snow bridges were not too creaky.

On day 2, we opted for a last out of bed/first on the summit approach. Thinking that our season of mountaineering and skiing would help us to the top. We left the hut at 2.30am; rather than taking the classic line up through the petit and grand plateau, we took the north ridge of the Dome du Gouter. This involved a considerable amount of 'boot packing' (ski's on back). it is however a lot safer as there is no risk of serac fall. This route joins the classic route at the Col du Dome du Gouter.

We hit a quick/steady pace and before we knew it we were at the Vallot hut. An emergency refuge below the summit of Mont Blanc. Here we ditched ski's and hiked over the 'Bosses Ridge', we got within a stone's throw of the summit but Plum was feeling pretty bad (since the previous night + lack of hydration + possibly altitude etc)...so we decided it was near enough for the day. It took us just over 5 hours to get here so I think we were on target for a 5.5 hour summit which would have been good. I didn't mind as I had been up there before and today had been a great journey nevertheless.

Sunrise at the Col below the Vallot refuge

Over the 'Bosses'

Skiing down the 'Grand Mulets' normal route. So pleased we chose not to ascend this route as you are exposed to serac fall danger for several hours. Oh and they are quite sizeable up here!

Lafaille Goulette - Mont Blanc du Tacul

2010-04-23T18:16:00.002+02:00

23rd April : Lafaille Goulette D II/4 250m

Quick day hit on the difficulties of the Lafaille Gully. We abseiled from very near to the top of the difficulties. Weather didn't look good for the whole up and over today. Still, we did a very chilled out 250m or so of climbing then abseiled the route.

Plum taking the first pitch. A lot thinner than last years photos. Still, pleasant climbing.

Me approaching the top of the first( actual second) pitch

Getting thinner and more snowy towards the top

So we did about 4 pitches (1 was 2 linked) of climbing then hit this pitch. All the ice was rotten and falling out as Plum scratched his way up so we called it a day here.

In the centre of the photo, to the left of the Diable couloir is the Lafaille Goulette.

Pyramid du Tacul

2010-04-22T13:35:00.003+02:00

Winter Sun rock climbing at 3000m

19th June: East Arete Pyramid du Tacul (a bit snowy)

Fancied some variation today and it has been warm and dry for a little while, so off we went with ski's, skins and rock climbing gear and went to do the Pyramid du Tacul east arete. A very easy but beautiful rock route accessed from the midi lift. A bit of fun for a spring day.

After the ski/rock shoe transition

The best ever access to rock climbing - skiing.

Trois Cols

2010-04-15T14:07:00.004+02:00

Once again, the beautiful Argenitere basin

Col du Chardonnet

We took the higher col to enable us to ski in. Unfortunately, the snow was rock hard so we chose the comfort of the rope for the first 30m.

14th April: Trois Cols

Ricks last adventure on this holiday and my last chance to break him. This route is a classic, not much skiing for the amount of walking but always traveling through stunning scenery.

So Ricks splitboard quest is over. The consensus being... better than snowshoes, heavier than a ski set up, splitboard ski crampons are 'the bomb!'

Heading for the col du tour

Rick enjoying April spring fresh tracks

Another party coming up, they ascended from the Col du Passon.

Col du Belvedere

2010-04-13T19:08:00.003+02:00

12th April: Col du Belvedere

Another day of extreme shuffling (touring). Floria drag was closed, but we managed to get everything together and Rick , Plum and I headed up over the high traverse to Lac Blanc. From here we took a direct skinning line for the col.

This is one of the tours in the Aiguille Rouges that I had yet to do. Another one ticked off.

From the col, the weather was coming in. If you drop directly in to to the north/west side from the col, you are looking at a short length of 50+ degrees then a more steady slope of about 45+. Unfortunately, due to the lack of sun, the snow was hard pack and nasty.

Plum took a little ride down the couloir but managed to get away with a scraped nose! woops. Anyway, I managed to get to him and find one of his ski's. Then the mission was on to find the other. Fortunately it was about 500 or 600m further down the hill!

Not exactly a pleasurable day out but still a great adventure. It all finished well with beer and chips in the Hotel le Buet.

Got shafted by the weather today, was expecting a rough day of snow and cloud but it was a blue sky beauty! So unpredictable this week.

Plums turn to go first, there is also a rope in alternative.

After skiing down, I found Plum's ski, a good way down the mountain, daggered in below a serac band. Lucky! Worth zooming in on this pic.

Col de la Buche

2010-04-09T19:50:00.002+02:00

April 9th: Col de la Buche

Spent 2 days trying to fix the van! And it is now working. hooray! At least we got out for this cheeky morning tour over the Col de la Buche. Pleasant day, only 3.5 hours and the skiing was a mix between soft snow, hard pack and spots of rubble. Still, managed to spend the rest of the day catching up on jobs.

The route goes from the Plan d'Aiguille (midi mid station) and traverses the moraine until you cross the Nantillons Glacier. From here you go up the descent route of Aiguille l'M. You ski from the Col to the mer de Glace. We descended ladders (the approach to the Envers du Plan refuge)
The ski descent is actually quite steep, about 45 degrees+.

Down

Aiguille d'Argentiere : Barbey Couloir

2010-04-06T18:25:00.002+02:00

6th April: Aiguille d'Argentiere : Mileau Glacier Ascent, Barbey Couloir Descent (NE Face)

Today's itinerary was fairly massive as we wanted to do a bit of fitness and acclimatising.

Grand Montets > Aig Argentiere > Ski Barbey Face > Fenetre Saleina > Col du Tour > Take the Col Passon ski descent to le Tour.

Ascent: approx 1500m Descent: approx 4000m

aka Guy and Plums Trois Cols or le Nouveau start to the Haute Route.

Today's descent, the Barbey Couloir on the E face of Aiguille d'Argentiere. 1000m TD ski. 50 degrees at the top for 30-40m then 45 for the rest.

Another party jumping into the next couloir over.

Plum striding out over the summit. Mont Dolent in the background

Me anxiously dropping in from the top. Babbing my pants.

Plum enjoying some turns, then more turns, then lots more. Long couloir!

Opens out towards the end.

Cunningham Couloir (off the bridge of the midi)

2010-04-05T19:13:00.005+02:00

5th April: Cunningham Couloir

A fine day and we are giving the mountain routes a bit of time to come into condition so we went to ski the Cunningham Couloir. For this you take an airy free hanging abseil off the bridge into the atmospheric couloir!

Spot Plum abseiling into the Couloir. He nearly inverted due to his hefty massive powder ski's pulling him over! We made 4 abseils in total.

The top of the couloir is about 50 degrees but provided awesome skiing, no other tracks today.

Me following

The Cunningham Couloir

To finish, we crossed the Ronde glacier and skied the SW? Couloir. Long and lots of nice turns!

What a great day! Perfect skiing here today with great tracks down the Plan d'Aiguille (until it dried up). Shame we couldn't make two laps as the midi was just rammmmmed with tourists this Easter Monday!

Morning Tour : Col de la Buche

2010-04-03T14:37:00.004+02:00

3rd April : Col de la Buche Attempt

After quite a drive (work) last night we still managed to be awake at about 7.30am so decided to go have a quick go of the Col de la Buche despite average weather forecast. After a bit of a skin and Rick having some problems with his skins not been trimmed quite right on his splitboard we decided to 'have it' down the Plan d'Aiguille face to Chamonix from the foot of the Blatiere.

Good turns once again. So this brings Rick's splitboard week initiation to an end. He is back in a couple of weeks for more turns and more touring! Maybe he would have had a spoonful of concrete by then.....

more snow due tonight!

Col du Passon - Good Friday Splitboard Tour

2010-04-03T14:19:00.003+02:00

2nd April : Col du Passon

Had a good few powder days during the last week but today was due to be a good 'Beau Temps' day. We planned to do the Trois Cols from Argentiere. unfortunately everyone else was out for the sunshine! Stay at home peasants!

Didnt get to the top of big monty until 10.30am so just decided to go get good skiing over the Col du Passon! It was stunning! Fresh tracks all week! This time the powder was so good it was pouring in from the top of my jacket!

Super snow

Rick making big spray!

Up to the col, splitty split.

Over the Col and down we go!

Return of the Powder - Spring Plan d' Aiguille

2010-04-01T18:51:00.002+02:00

1st April Le Tour > Plan d Aiguille

Have been skiing nearly every day this week. Snow is coming good and the blue sky is coming out tomorrow! Poor visibility today but we waited it out and then had great waist deep snow off the Midi mid station.

We had to walk out the bottom section but it was worth the turns at the top!

Snow is back! "where did it all go wrong?"

2010-03-30T15:44:00.003+02:00

27th: Powder day Grand Montets with Rick
28th: Powder day at Flegere with Rick and Jen
29th: Vallee Blanche Laps and testing the Splitty!

So.. Rick is up over with his Splitboard. Today was the testing day but the snow was so good! So we did 2 variation laps of the Vallee Blanche and did a little skin to test out the uphill capabilities!

Plum and Guy skiing in-sync out of sync

Good snow at last!

"Where did it all go wrong Rick?"

Afternoon Cragging

2010-03-25T08:22:00.002+01:00

24th March 2010: Les Gaillands

Been a while since I squeezed the rock shoes on so went for a cragging session at Les Gaillands. A 2 minute bike ride from our apartment. Amazing how weak you get if you dont climb for ages!

It has been raining in the valley a couple of days which put perhaps 20cm down up high. The rain snow limit was about 2000-2300m though so everything is getting stripped low down. Spring has arrived for sure.

I am currently sat waiting for the Aiguille du Midi to open as I want to go for a quick tour but the weather doesn't look great!

Aiguille du Chardonnet - SE Couloir

2010-03-19T23:23:00.003+01:00

19th - Aiguille du Chardonnet SE Couloir AD 400/500m. Descent - Ordinary route then ski to Le Tour

Great day out, it was about time to get on a summit so we picked an easy line up the South side of the Chardonnet with the plan to ski out to Le Tour. Turned out to be quite a long day. The ski ascent was icy, the bootpack was quite soft but not too bad and the ridge to the summit was kinda terrible.

Skin up to the Chardonnet Col, the route starts up the second main snow cone on the left. This route is skiid also. We decided to continue up mixed ground to the summit. About 600-700m of uphill to here. For those looking to ski, its in great condition!

400+ metres of solo then a pitch of fun mixed climbing took us to the Forbes Arete

We finished up the last 100m or so of the Forbes Arete, crap soft snow slowed progress but there were a few nice mixed moves on the way to the summit.

The ordinary route down. Snow descent followed by 'hunt the abseil points'. We found them anyway and made 4 abseils to the col before skiing to Le Tour.

Nice to get out on the mountain more this week. Maybe more of this to come now we are nearly into April.

Aiguille Verte: Couloir Couturier

2010-03-16T18:05:00.004+01:00

Green line, Bettembourg-Thivierge. Red line, as far as we got :(

15th-16th March

Yet to do any Alpinism really yet this winter, Plum and I headed up to the Grand Montets to stay for the night with the aim to climb the Bettembourg-Thivierge finish on the Couturier Couloir to the summit of the Aiguille Verte. We took ski's with the interest of abseiling the Whymper Couloir and skiing home.

Sparkling Rosé but no pan!

Let's go chill on the balcony at home. On the way down.

Strapping on the ski's for the last stretch of the Couturier

Perfect weather was forecast but with a few cock ups on our behalf (forgetting a pan to cook with, my ski flying off down the mountain at 4.30am, not managing to fit in the warm toilets to sleep so bivvying out in the -26 temps etc) we decided to bail off the route after getting beasted by spindrift and strong winds.

We managed to get just below the 'rock fin'. Snow conditions were good and it turned out to be a nice day as expected but not until lunchtime. We just weren't feeling the love today (I think it would have been pretty windy towards the top), so bailed out on Abakalov's until we decided to put our ski's on for the last 200m or so.

Still..... more good weather this week. Might go over to the Chardonnet. Boss de Bosses tomorrow!

Col du Tacul : Couloir du Capucin

2010-03-14T21:35:00.006+01:00

Hiking up the last slopes of the Col du Tacul, picking the best line.

3 x 30m abseils into the Couloir

12th March

Went up with Andy for a good bit of exercise skinning up to the Col du Tacul followed by some steep skiing on the Couloir du Capucin (N Side) . Snow was pretty rough but the skiing was in an atmospheric and amazing environment. Loved it! More of the steeps please! Thanks Andy for the pictures.

Anxious first turn

its nice to be able to see the end. I imagine this would be great with powder! As would everything!

Andy with a limp wrist.

Come out to play sunshine

2010-03-11T14:24:00.002+01:00

Cant wait for the feeling of ski's on back crampons on the ski boots going for it up some big faces! Lets get going....

The stars aligned and unaligned today.... which is ok because the weather looks good next week!

So excited for the winter alpinism now!

The Vallee Blanche with Byron! Whiteout!

2010-03-07T08:37:00.003+01:00

3rd March

Byron is over this week...so the big tick was required once again! Byron has been skiing for a week or so. Here we are skiing the vallee blanche, unfortunately for him it was stormy!

Good news though! We have booked tickets to go to Yosemite in September!

Grand Montets & Courmayeur Powder Day

2010-03-03T07:40:00.003+01:00

Jools whooping her way down the amazing powder couloir of Canal Vesse

Tom in the trees

Jen skiing out to Zerotta

1st March: Grand Montets...hmmm great day, except I borrowed Plums old ski's, the bindings then popped at the top of Grand Montets so had to do the rest on one ski.....interesting!

2nd March: Wasnt expecting it but we got a wee powder day at Courmayeur today!

Went with Jen, Jules, Tom and Byron for a hoon around resort and ended up getting stuck in to all of the awesome off piste that Courmayeur has to offer. Finishing down the bottom of Canal Vesse. So atmospheric and amazing!

Big Monty & Col d'Argentiere

2010-02-27T18:41:00.004+01:00

27th Feb Col d'Argentiere

Its been a while as the weather has been really rough here and I have been working a lot.

Anyways, the last few days have seen a load of snow coming down and rain in Chamonix. But the Remontee Mechanique has read 100cm of snow on Thursday and 60cm of snow on Friday so Saturday was the day! And oh yes, it was ultimate!

Up to the Col d'Argentiere

NE of the Droites. Lagarde looking like it needs some attention soon

Glenn and I managed to get up to Grand Montets for the lucky freshies from the Bochard and Herse lifts down the Combe Secret etc. Standard, awesome heavy powder skiing!

Come 11am, we had a reservation on the top lift so headed up to tour the Col d'Argentiere. More great views of the valley and seeing how things were shaping up.

Lets be honest, we were fairly buggered after our morning skiing so only made it half way up before sacking it off and grabbing more fresh tracks!

This is the last main tour (passon, chardonnet, argentiere, tour noir, col d'argentiere) on this side for me to do so pretty happy.

Envers du Plan with John & Sam

2010-02-22T17:21:00.002+01:00

22nd Feb Envers du Plan Vallee Blanche

John and Sam, mates from home came down the VB today on a stunning morning with fresh snow! Sam is a trooper as it his 7th day skiing! There's a bit of inspiration Byron!

Cascade EMHM

2010-02-17T19:28:00.003+01:00

17th Feb : Argentiere Ice Climbing

Argentiere : Rive Gauche

Plum taking the line direct over the bulges.

Me moving off the first stance

An interesting day! and wow! I was pretty wiped out after yesterday! Good times.

So, with the Foehn wind coming over and the temperatures going through the roof (+2) in Chamonix, we decided to go ice climbing.... it turned out all well!

We headed down to the Rive Gauche to check out what was there. Anyway, we found the EMHM cascade.

I think this is graded about 4+ but Plum (who pulled it out the bag today with some top climbing) the direct line was more about WI 5.

I had the recurring frozen fingers so bailed on the top pitch but hey. good times. Need new gloves!

Combe du Pouce !Amazing!

2010-02-16T20:01:00.005+01:00

Not updated for a while as have been busy with work. Went Ice Climbing last week but nothing particularly worth writing home about. We went to the Cremerie (easy Ice cragging). Here there are easy lines but we found you could mix things up by taking steep lines here and there.

16th February (Pancake Day) What a day!

Plum enjoying the Combe du Pouce

With inspiration from TV Mountain Glenn, Plum and I headed up to ski the Combe du Pouce and the continuation to Servoz (Flegere>Servoz)

TV Mountain Link:
http://www.tvmountain.com/index.php?option=com_hwdvideoshare&task=viewvideo&Itemid=112&video_id=1281)

I have not heard of much traffic on this route and I couldnt find any written info about it. So we had a quick look at the map (the Samoens one) and sat in the VB pub and worked out a skiing line.

A pleasant surprise. Going straight up from the Index lift, past the gendarme then a traverse left we crossed over the Col to a big view over the Pouce. I remembered the descent from summer and there is a very small downclimb followed by a fantastic shady bowl.

The skiing is varied and great with lots to keep you entertained. At the end of the descent, there is an amazing gorge with pitches of superb skiing.

Next was the second ascent which involved a 400m of ascent but was quite lengthy. Still, lovely spot very peaceful with nobody around.

The descent to Servoz involved skiing another gorge which had thin snow covering in sections. After, we had another small up and then some fun summer track skiing down to Servoz.

I would really recommend this! Great quality skiing. We all decided that it could be super sketchy after snowfall and we were pretty pleased that it has been 5 days after snowfall.

I guess there are many variations of the route we did, maybe later in the season the gorges would not ski so well and obviously getting down to Servoz could be difficult.

Glenn showing us how it is done

Midday sun and freshies

Glenn getting stuck in

Glenn getting smaller

Plan de L'Aiguille Glaciers Bowl

2010-02-06T14:24:00.001+01:00

6th Feb: Day off Work and its a powder day!

Need I say more. Carl and I had a great day with a fair amount of freshies to be had!

Here are some shots of Carl skiing the Glaciers Bowl.

Col du Passon

2010-02-04T18:29:00.003+01:00

4th February : Col du Passon

Once again Plum and I (surprise there) headed out on a bit of a research trip. Firsty, I havent done the col du Passon before and secondly, we wanted to check out several routes in the Argentiere Basin and on the Chardonnet. The previous post shows some pictures of how things are shaping up there.

Argentiere Glacier

The Col du Passon starts from the top of the Grand Montets, you ski straight down onto and over the glacier. Then after a straight forward 750m ascent by ski and hike over the col next to the Aig du Chardonnet you are brought out overlooking the Tour Glacier. Great access from here to the Albert Premier Hut but also great skiing to Le Tour. So much fresh snow with a slight crust. Good skiing right now.

After a straight forward skin up, we hiked up the last 100m of 35 degree snow.

More photos of us having a shit time.

Why are there so many fresh tracks still to be had on these classic tours? Where is everyone?

Argentiere Basin Photos

2010-02-04T18:20:00.004+01:00

Here are a few piccies that we took on our recce today to get an idea of how things were shaping up. Photos taken 4th Feb 2010.

Lagarde Couloir (Droites)

Ginat (Droites)

Couturier (Verte)

Escarra? (Chardonnet)

Droite N Face / Tournier Spur / Lagarde

Petit Viking

Cosmiques Couloir

2010-02-01T15:01:00.006+01:00

Looking down the Cosmiques

The exit near the snout of the glacier

1st Feb :

Another day off and a chance to get out with Plum. A Chamonix classic this morning and a great way to break in February. It was freezing at the top of the midi lift - face, nose and eyelashes all frozen up, skiing with down jacket!

Starting with 2 abseils (60m and 40m) The Cosmiques Couloir is a steep ski taking a line down to one side from the Abri Simond hut off the Vallee Blanche through broken rock barriers starting at 50 degree slopes for about 100m before opening out into sections of 45 degrees and 40 degrees for some 800m+. You really wouldn't want to fall from near the top...

Combine this with the snowfall over the weekend and there we have it. 2 happy skiers getting stuck into deep snow on a good gradient! The descent is direct and brings you straight down to Chamonix. The route finishes at the Tunnel du Mont Blanc entrance, from where you hitch back.

I hope this sort of stuff isn't too addictive!

Cool report of the ski here:

http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/cosmiques-couloir-photo-trip-report

Pictures to come, but here soon, the one above is just from my camera phone.

Mont Vélan par le Col de la Gouille

2010-01-26T17:46:00.005+01:00

Mont Vélan, photo taken from the Valsorey Hut last spring.

25th & 26th January

It was time for a trip to Switzerland, and another unfinished project. We planned to ski tour Mont Velan, a beautiful summit overlooked during the Classic Haute Route.

Starting from Bourg St Pierre, you skin up for about 4 hours (took us longer due to crap snow) to the Cabane Velan. Which is open during the winter months and well stocked with wood. Mattresses and blankets are available. I found this day difficult due to the previous day, aching body parts, being unfit and the deep snow.

Plum, looking good....seeing to the stove

The huge Grand Combin which we overlook from the hut. The Plateau du Couloir route nips behind the dark semi circle shape halfway up on the right.

Morning, day 2. Heading for the Col de la Gouille. Our changed objective.

We had a good night in the hut, with a leftover bottle or Rosé and some pasta and with the stove cranked up. Our fitness is not the best at the minute, and the quality of the snow (with no tracks to be seen) was proving difficult. We decided to at least get over the Col the next day and probably miss the summit.

The next day was overcast and we had a nice skin up the the Col. Here you pull on chains (if they aren't buried) over mixed terrain to cross over the rock band.

At the Col de la Gouille

The descent, before the snow and cloud came. We decided to take a trip through the glacier, rather than skinning up and over. It paid off, phew.

Glacier tinkering...

Our route in descent from the Col.

Due to poor vis, the ski descent wasn't as good as it could have been, but at least we hit the right lines, didn't end up in any holes and made a speedy descent.

Pretty tired now. But good to get the fitness going finally for this season.

Grand Envers Ski & Breche Puiseux

2010-01-26T17:09:00.005+01:00

24th January - Breche Puiseux

The Breche Puiseux is a day ski mountaineering trip from Chamonix. Plum and I decided we needed a leg stretch before our trip to Mont Velan on Monday, and we had meant to do this for some time. It was a nice morning becoming more overcast as the day went on.

The route consists of a long ski down the Grand Envers, then we skinned across the glacier by the Requin Hut and started up the glacier towards the Breche. 700m of bashing a track into some quite deep snow and we were quite knackered! Still, another 300m hike up a gully (snow was getting deeper!) brough us out at an awkward step near the top. The snow was badly soft here so we pulled a few mixed moves out of the bag to reach the breche. A lot more desperate than it should have been! Too much soft snow being the problem.

Still, hard work leads to awesome ski descents. There were no other tracks in this whole area!

Plum removing his skins, ready to start the soft snow swim to the top

Hard work, making tracks up the gully

A couple of small abseils later and we were next to the Grand Jorasses with 100m+ of fresh tracks to make

The Grand Jorasses up close

After, we ski'd out to the buvette and ski'd down the VB home run. Pretty knackered by the time we were done! Not quite fit enough yet....

'Wreck Your Spleen' / Drus Couloir

2010-01-20T16:15:00.005+01:00

Plum and I headed up to the top bin on the Grand Montets today as we awaited the new snow that didnt arrive. Anyway, we though sack it, lets go do the Rectiligne. Now I have done the Pas de Chevre before but never really taken much notice as to where the Rectiligne Coulouir actually is. I knew it was somewhere skiers left of the Pas de Chevre bowls.

Here is a photo showing the various lines on this side of the Grans Montets (you will need to click it to view the routes as they are quite small). Here we can see the Nant Blanc Face on the Verte and the Drus North Face.

Blue : Pas de Chevre Combe x 2
Red : The way we went.... i think (Since discovered is known a the Drus Couloir or 'WreckYourSpleen')
Green: Rectiligne Couloir

As a description we skied left of the normal 2 obvious bowls and took what we thought to be the third couloir entrance from the right. We had some nice snow for several turns maybe 100m or so descent, then dropped into a steep 45+ narrow gully about the width of Plums ski's, there were some rocks in the middle which proved difficult to negotiate (i forgot my ice axe) but we got there. Sideslipped down to some 40-45 terrain. From here we could ski quality snow all the way out.

In Anselme Baud's book it reads,

'There is also a variant route to the left of the Rectiligne that is less aesthetic, more dangerous and has a delicate section across some rocks'

So I presume we ski'd this.

After, we ski'd out the Mer de Glace then hiked up to the Buvette and ski'd the home run. The run down was fine with ample snow covering.

Work tomorrow but it has been a great week.

Discussion here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=388891

Toula Footage

2010-01-19T22:20:00.005+01:00

Nice Work Plum on the on3p's with his video editing skills.

Here we have Plum with the helmet cam and a few shots of us skiing alongside! Check out the bear suit.

Verbier - Backflips

2010-01-19T19:15:00.007+01:00

Off we went from Cham over the hill to Verbier, a short drive away.

Just cruising today razzing around the piste then discovered the delights of a big kicker straight onto a gigantic air bag.

Jen, Jools, Tom and I all got stuck in.....

Jen's Jump

and with this online: http://www.swatch.com/gb_en/shootmyride/smr_videoplayer.id-70832.html

Guy's Jump

also found this online: http://www.swatch.com/gb_en/shootmyride/smr_videoplayer.id-70833.html

WOOooHHOOOO more trips here I think!

Yeahhhh Come Onnnn Team America Rip up Italy YEAHHH

2010-01-18T19:24:00.002+01:00

Mr Purple in his birthday suit

Arms and legs!

13th - Skiing Brevent with Jen, super snow covering superb piste

14th - Work

15th - Work

16th - Work

17th - Work + Bouldering Wall

18th Italy!

Ok so we are all brits (Charlie, Paddy, Plum & I) but we gave it the full sound effects....Team America with the whoooping and hollering yeahhhhhh down the Italian side of the mountain found an amazing amount of soft snow ready for us to rip up. We ski'd a massive 5500m or so of the white stuff with 2 laps of the Toula glacier and then a run down the italian side of the vallee blanche down back from Courmayeur to Chamonix!

Needs less words. it was emmsense.

Photogenic Toula

All the big boys were skiing fat powder ski's with 115mm undefooot and I was left with the old 85mm width. Please can someone buy me some new ski's?

Plum giving the new ski's their debut. Movie from the helmet cam soon!

Dodgy outfits and Charlie in his purple birthday suit was the call of the day.

Underside of the ski's....!

Envers du Plan

2010-01-13T18:43:00.002+01:00

Tuesday 12th Jan:

At last, back in Cham and time for my season to start (all the work aside!)

Went with the newly formed 'tuesday club' (Charlie, Paddy, Andy, Emma and Myself) and we went for a wee hoon off the midi in bright sunshine. The main fixed ropes are not up yet and the normal route has seen little traffic. We took the Envers du Plan route which was great!

Weeks Work in Scotland over. Now season can start!

2010-01-10T10:45:00.004+01:00

I have just finished running a series of Winter Skills Courses with Loughborough Students Mountaineering Club. What a week!

The valley ice is shaping up with the -21 temperatures we have been seeing up in the Glens. Unfortunately we experienced enough difficulty accessing routes (which would be completely covered making routefinding difficult).

Ski's would be the best right now!

Anyway, we all had a good time, I am really excited about getting back to Chamonix now, to get stuck into the season at last. No more distractions!

Puking snow at the Grand Montets Bon Annee

2009-12-31T17:15:00.002+01:00

Minging in town today but by the time we made it up to Grand Montets the snow was still falling heavy then it started to clear. A good load of snowfall from yesterday (50cm+) with the addition of todays dumping found us faceplanting big piles of the fresh white stuff

Carl enjoying the powder from the Herse

Courmayeur

2009-12-30T09:42:00.002+01:00

20th - Le Tour (as below)

21st - Work

22nd - Work

23rd-26th - UK

27th - Work

28th - Work (sense the pattern!)

29th - Courmayeur

I was driving yesterday and took some clients over to Courmayeur. Anyway, this gave Tom and I a great excuse to grab a few hours skiing. It was raining in Chamonix but snowing in Courmayeur, yes it was wet snow and the 'powder' was heavy but best under the lifts and in the trees. Absolutely spent after a few hours!

Just making some final preperations for the up and coming Scotland trip where I will be taking a university group out for 6 days winter skills courses followed by a cheeky weekend of climbing.

No pics....need a new camera!

Ciao

Pow Le Tour

2009-12-20T19:57:00.004+01:00

Still a few tufts of heather kicking around to send you off course....

Fresh tracks near the pistes still going in the afternoon!

Didn't have to venture far today to find the fresh stuff. The best days skiing so far i'd say. VERY cold though!

Chamonix Opening

2009-12-20T10:18:00.004+01:00

16th - Ski Grand Montets, reasonable snow covering but really hanging on a big dump. I think this is because I am getting fussy!

17th - Work

18th - Work

19th - Ski Brevent & Flegere, today was the first lift opening (80% of Cham) so Carl and I got the first bin of the season up to the top and enjoyed the first tracks. About 15-20cm of fresh snow on an icy layer was fun and there were some deep patches. Snow very light and fluffy so nice start to the year!

No action shots yet as not got camera sorted but here sis one from the balcony this morning. Town is looking snowy and al the decorations up...let it snow!

We were going to go have a look at Cogne today for some ice climbing but not great reports just yet. Just aiming at getting those ski legs sorted!

Scotland / Chamonix

2009-12-15T19:26:00.004+01:00

Tower Gully

(photo from Byron)

As I was on my way out to Chamonix for 10 days or so, a good friend Byron sent me a wee email with some snaps of his weekend in Scotland.

Looks great up there. Since then, I have been out skiing at the Grand Montets (yesterday) which was pretty nice. The snow covering is good but there are still a few areas that need more snow and at least some fresh stuff. Ice is shaping up relatively slowly by the looks of things.

Here is a pic of Scotland for now, might get out to Courmayeur by the end of the week. Busy working!

Goodbye Beach > Psyched for Snow...Lets go Skiing

2009-12-11T17:48:00.003+01:00

Wow, so it has been a year since I started this blog! That went quite quickly... it has been an amazing year with great times had with great mates in and out of the mountains.

This year sees Jen and I heading back to Chamonix for the winter, really please to have some good mates there who are really up for getting out ski touring and climbing.

I am just getting mentally prepared for the action by watching steep and getting pretty excited about this coming season.

As its the time of year to fashion a christmas list together (which does just happen to consist of big wall climbing handbooks!), I have been spending a bit more time on a bit of a winter wish list around Chamonix. Like last year I will be keeping a blog on events and uploading a few photos of the adventures, please feel free to make comments and let me know how you are getting on with conditions around the Cham valley.

Some routes I am thinking about..... (excluding valley ice)

Climbing

Aiguille Verte - Nant Blanc Face, Y Couloir

Aiguille du Midi - Eugster Direct

Monch - NW Buttress, Lauper Route (N Face)

Supercouloir - Tacul

Migot Spur - Chardonnet

Cosmiques Icefall

Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey - N Face

Modica Noury etc - Tacul

Skiing

Breche Puiseux

Col du Passon (never got round to it last year!)

Cosmiques Couloir

Ski Mont Blanc

Aiguille Argentiere from the valley from an early start

Loads of repeats from last year.....

maybe need some more inspiration here (Mont Dolent Ski)

As usual this tends to change as I actually read what the route consists of!!!

See you in Chamonix :)

Trekking in the Solokhumbu, Nepal

2009-11-23T12:47:00.005+01:00

A quick update. We are in Kathmandu right now after a little trip up the Solokhumbu area of Nepal. Home of the famous Everest base camp trek and the alternative trek to Gokyo Peak that we chose.

Stunning weather with some snow to add to the fun and scenery. Happily off the Dhaal Bhat and onto Chips and Beer now before we head out to Borderlands Resort for a couple of days.

The view from Gokyo Peak (5260m) Everest on the left and Cholatse on the right.

Jen getting beaten by spindrift on our approach to Gokyo

The beautiful Cholatse

Back to India next for a spot of motorcycling, cricket, curry and trains.

the 'Abode of Snows' here we come!

2009-10-30T14:54:00.004+01:00

Doh.....

Forgot to get our Visa's sorted for India (had other things on our mind). So spent this week arranging our trip and going to Birmingham to get a Visa. Expensive game!

Anyway, I guess it is a good thing because now we know what we are doing and have some kind of agenda.

It is going to be a knackering trip!

> Manchester to Delhi, chill out here for a bit.
> Overland Delhi to Kathmandu, an adventure in itself!
> Flying to Lukla airstrip
> Going trekking around the Khumbu region. No specific goals here.
> Walking back to Jiri and the bus to Kathmandu
> Explore Kathmandu
> Fly to Bengalore (South India) and Explore
> Train (Sleeper) to Goa and Chill by the Beach
> Train (Sleeper) to Mumbai
> Watch the India vs Sri Lanka Test Cricket
> Train (Sleeper) to Delhi and Agra to the Taj Mahal
> Relax back in Delhi at the end of our manic trip!

Back in time to get an MOT on the van then drive it out to Chamonix!

MIA Assessment week

2009-10-24T17:03:00.004+02:00

Well, a tough week but a great outcome. Passed!

Just a quick message to say thanks to everyone who has lent a hand over the last month during my personal training for this.

So pleased its all over....until the next one!

Having a week off now then flying out to India with Jen :)

Teaching Climbing & Rain

2009-10-18T21:02:00.002+02:00

Just a little update, have been doing a load of climbing and scrambling days in and around North Wales this month. Bit of teaching trad climbing. All is well, my MIA assessment starts today which should be fun..... :S. Feel 25% prepared!

(Above: Zora leading the top pitch of BooBoo Slab, Tremadog)

Snowdonia

2009-10-12T20:56:00.003+02:00

Not been up to much, but just a quick rundown on mountain type stuff that has been going on here!

4th: Idwal Slabs with 2 students, Volunteering for the BMC Student Seminal at PYB

5th: Scrambling Short Rope day with Max and Mark, up Nor Nor Buttress variant descend west face

6th: Rainy day! Rescue Training at Indy indoor wall, and weak bouldering session on my behalf!

7th: Bochlywd and Milestone with 2 David & Steve

8th: Gold Navigation Training Course (work)

9th: Moelwyns solo

10th: Scrambling Day with Tom, Little Gully>North Gully onto North Buttress Variant. Descend South ridge Tryfan, to Glyder Fach main cliff up Chasm, descended Gribin Ridge to Cneifon Arete, descend to Ogwen.

11th: Tremadog, rained and recce'd routes. No climbing! Drove to Sheffield!

Got a week of Supply Teaching at KES!

Chamonix to North Wales

2009-10-05T17:15:00.002+02:00

Ok, so the end of the summer and some fantastic routes this summer.

Now its time for me to head to North Wales to get some climbing, scrambling and mountain fun in prior to an MIA assessment at the end of the month.

So far have had a good session down at the works, out on Eyam moor on a navigation course, multi pitch climbing on Idwal and a day out on Tryfac East Face today.

Not the alps, but great fun and feeling fit.

India & Nepal at the end of the month, really exciting!

Aiguille Noire de Peuterey

2009-09-25T15:24:00.006+02:00

Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (South Ridge) 1200m, TD.

Write up coming soon... here are some pictures for now!

Cooking up at the amazing Noire (Borelli) Hut

The skyline ridge starting from Point Gambi (big spire on left) to the summit.

2/3rds up the ridge... first time the camera came out.

Making myself comfy on the 1 man bivvy ledge. Byron left me after an hour or so of crouching. Stayed clipped on all night.

Brewing up at 3600m

Arriving at the Bivvy just as the sun went down

The last abseil before the summit......

...before the ropes got stuck, so had to prussik back up the full 50m

Byron with his ladyfriend

Summit view is always amazing.

The descent is long, tedious and hard to follow. Worth getting some good beta on about the descent. We wasted quite a lot of time route-finding on the East ridge.

More write up and beta soon.

Cordier Pillar (take II)

2009-09-25T15:21:00.006+02:00

David Hasselhoff called; he wants his shorts back.

Byrons Guest Blog:

Holiday synopsis so far:

- Fly to Geneva

- Drive to Cham (5 pitches climbed)

- Drive to Saalbitschijen (1 pitch climbed)

- Drive to Val di Mello: too tight to pay for guidebook + Guy's rope broken = 2 pitches climbed.

- Drive to Bregaglia (0 pitches climbed)

- Back to Cham where we had a little fun from the Midi.

Not quite the super alpine holiday we had planned!

So...Guy suggests the Cordier Pillar on the Grand Chamoz. "Great!" I say.

"You need a number 5 cam to avoid a 10 metre run out on the final hard pitch" Guy says.

"But they're like, £60 aren't they?"

"£80. We'll just have to man up."

A quick walk from the middle station across some moraines to the bivvy site see's us eyeing up our obvjective and making our beds for the night. A few rocks roll down the glacier but they don't matter as it will all freeze overnight holding them in place.

9:00: The usual pasta dinner to the sounds of some more rockfall doesn't deter our spirits before an early bed and hard day's climbing the next day.

9:20: More rockfall.

9:30: More rockfall

9:35: More rockfall

9:37: Lots more rockfall; getting much more frequent now.

9:38: Pan fall (stove falls off the wall)

9:39: BOOM! Sit bolt upright to witness a shower of sparks sliding down the glacier. "Errr, we have to go across that in the morning" says Guy. "I don't like playing Russian Roulette with a mountain" says I.

The look of delight on Guy's face at another failed route.

9:40: Back down to Cham to a comfortable bed and Guy's drunken housemates.

Plan aborted. Not to worry, next morning Guy hands me a book with our next possible objective - 1200metres of TD climbing. Yeah right, I say...

L'ete Indien - Mont Oreb

2009-09-19T21:38:00.004+02:00

Saturday 19th September

Headed to Le Buet and up the Berard valley today for a late start (with bad weather due) on L'ete Indien. Turns out to be a superb homogenous route at about 6A. Another fantastic outing, looked like it was going to rain all day but managed to hold off.

Byron on the second pitch

Splattered on the superb green slab

Route: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=72327

Contamine Grisolle (Left Edge) Triangle du Tacul

2009-09-18T20:12:00.003+02:00

18th September: Contamine Grisolle (Left Edge) Triangle du Tacul

AD III 350m

An easy line but one I have fancied the look of for a while. After a good kip in the hut, we set out at 7.30am with Byron Buck (Short for Buckminster, long for B) from the hut. Lovely route, good condition right now with a thin covering of consolidated snow to make travel straight forward. Great mixed step (around guidebook pitch 4) to keep things entertaining.

Descended down the NW Slope and onto the normal Mt Blanc du Tacul route, good snow cover on this slope Making the winter season REALLY exciting and seem quite close!

All in all, fantastic route - short enough to knock it off in a morning and tricky enough (if you just follow your nose not the guidebook) to make it more adventurous!

On the starting snow/ice slopes

Getting onto the ramping slope before the mixed step

Came down this afternoon as the weather looks ok to go get on some rock.

September Badile Cassin Project: Still keeping eyes open on the Vicosoprano Meteosuisse forecast for another drive over to the Bregaglia. Looks like tue/wed will be dry and maybe warm enough to start melting snow off the route.... optimistic.

Byron has a treat for you today with a little video:

Cosmiques Arete (Again)

2009-09-18T19:50:00.003+02:00

17th September: Took big bags up to the Abri Perroux nr the Col du Midi. For a couple of days of scouting around and having a look.

Lift didnt start up until about 9.30 so we dropped gear off, had a brew and made for the Cosmiques Arete to help Byron get some acclimatising - besides, its always a great route.

Completed that in a couple of hours, realised we forgotten coffee money, so retreated back to the hut for another brew!

Fresh snowfall (maybe 10-15cm in places), but otherwise people were out getting some routes done (Chere Couloir, Mt Blanc du Tacul, Traverse of Lachenal etc etc) not much else.

Valley Cragging (rain dodging)

2009-09-16T22:45:00.002+02:00

16th September

More grim weather around (have tried every angle.... morocco, fontainbleau, verdon) all considered. We have decided to stick it out here.

Went to Le Fayet crag this morning then it cleared up a bit and went to Les dalles des aveyron for the afternoon. Nice slab bolt clipping, very chilled.

Decided to head up to the midi tomorrow for a look over the next 3 days just getting an idea whats happening high up.

Val di Mello & Val Bregaglia

2009-09-15T22:51:00.004+02:00

Ok..... average news update for September Alpinism here in the alps.

The long awaited 'crowds go away and weather comes good' has not happened. Crowds have gone, rain has come. We went to the Val di Mello for some sport climbing. So we set out without a guidebook and did some roadside cragging. Until pitch 2 when we realised there was serious damage to one of the ropes (ewounder! ... from previous escapade) so had to bail!

Chilled out in the local Cafe which was a cool place called Bar Monica (got hold of the local guidebooks etc) but then it rained...........

So we drove to the Bregagli. our objective was the Cassin Route on the Badile. So the weather looks crap for the rest of the week, we decided to camp out for the week and wait. Next day there was snow to about 2500m. Bugger, road trip continues.

Back in Bondo...ok so snow has come down to 2500m. We need some 25 degreesish weather to clear that before we spin the van back around to come have another go.

Today we headed for Chamonix, at least here we can meet friends, drink beer and get out for gaps in the weather here and there!

Salbitschijen - The greatest granite ridge?

2009-09-13T14:54:00.003+02:00

Sat in the car park in Andermatt now after our mission on the West Grat. That route is massive!

Weather.....average - Needless to say we didnt get very far on it (taking too long to do all 33 pitches!). I think this is better re-visited in July in a long day hit. At least now we have the guidebook and some knowledge.

Salbitschjen West Grat - 1000m - ED1 - 6A Obl

Said to be the finest granite ridge?! Shame we cant confirm this just yet!

Looks like rain for the rest of the month, so we are going to stay low and wait for things to brighten up. For some Pizza and Vino we are heading to the Val di Mello (I) now before heading backa round to the Bregaglia for more Badile action.

Ciao

Les Jumeaux du Brévent - Catyoucha Man

2009-09-13T14:51:00.002+02:00

Stunning, inspiring, climbing photography .....

12th September

Byron is here... went for a warm up on Catyoucha today before heading to the Bernese Oberland (Salbitschijen) for something new!

Nice route. Abseil approach was a shame but meant the rotue was quiet. Actually climbd the first pitch of a route to the right 6A before finding it was the wrong route so abseiled to the start of Catyoucha.

Finished before the final corner as we had to hit the road!

Tour du Mont Blanc

2009-09-10T11:54:00.004+02:00

Mum came out and it was time for a break from L'Alpinism! So Jen joined us and we walked from Chamonix to Courmayeur over 4 days. And why not too! There are some awesome views of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey on the descent to Val Veni...Really want to get on that.

Trading the mother in for Byron today so we will see what that brings! A road trip I feel with a Rock Jock trip to the Bregaglia - Very Exciting!

Check out this cow we found on the way!

Petit Dru North Face Attempt : Death Bivouac

2009-08-27T16:52:00.008+02:00

In response to the email from Mum : "Have you been up a mountain playing silly buggers while I have been waiting for a reply to any of my e-mails? " The answer is yes and here is the story!

27th August 2009

This morning we had a little adventure on the Dru North Face, John Roberts - the guest blogger gives us a summary. To see a bit of route beta and rockfall news see the previous post.

Over to John......

Problem 1 - Lightning Storm Number 1

"This is the best way - you bend down on your knees and stick your ass in the air. The lightning goes in your ass."

Problem 2 - Water

"This water's full of aliens."

"No it's not, it's granite"

Problem 3 - Gas

"We've run out of gas."

Problem 4 - Rain Storm Number 1

"Of f£$k, shit, the chocolate's gone down a hole."

"Oh well, you're going hungry."

"No you are, it's the team chocolate."

"Better go and get it then."

Problem 5 - Rockfall (see photo from below post)

"The bonatti pillar's falling down."

"What do we do."

"Run"

"It's easier if you run when you're out your sleeping bag."

"Oh, yeah."

"Where now?"

"Hide behind that rock."

"Do you think we're gonna die?"

"No."

"Go get the camera then."

"Now I feel like an American."

"My sleeping bag's over there... Damn, I got pretty far hopping"

Problem 6 - 3 hour rain storm 2

"My bivi bags better than yours."

"No it's not, mine only weighs 500grams."

"So what, mine's waterproof. Oh shit"

"What"

"The f&$^£&g puddle that collected in the hood just poured in."

"See told you mine's better."

3:30am

"What's your psyche level out of 100?"

"40"

"You?"

"Bout 62."

Problem 7 - Rockfall number 2

"We've gone the wrong way"

"This is the way down here."

BOOOOM

"Good job we went the wrong way. Would've died then."

"What's your psyche level?"

"Let's go home."

"OK"

Until next time..........

Petit Dru North Face Attempt : Rockfall

2009-08-27T13:32:00.007+02:00

Quick photo of minutes after the rockfall - after we ran away!

(the cloud is not rainy cloud, its granite dust!)

More news and pictures coming soon and a story from John. But to put a long story short another big section of the Bonatti Pillar fell off last night as we were bivvying in the lower morraine.

This along with storm and rain last night meant we attempted the start of the North Face Classic Route this morning but quickly ran out of psyche!

Amone Slab

2009-08-24T18:25:00.004+02:00

Waiting for the weather...... John has flown back from the UK and now its a waiting game. Didnt want to wait too long so we went to do another of Gaston's favourites, The Amone Slab.

As I write this I have read some comments on the web about the quality of the route in terms of bolt spacing etc.... Yeah its bold here and there but we found it ok. And in the total 12 pitches, there are only really 3 hardish sections. With the 7th being fairly thin (perhaps bold fr 6a?).

Anyway, a hot day and a good day. The route was ok if not a little samey (as to be expected)... I think the heat and hot feet got to us a little as we were pleased to have it in the bag as we topped out and boshed down the chains to the van for lots of cold drinkss!!!

Lets have this storm out of the way so we can go climb something biiiiig.

Johns pics coming soon

Nabot Leon, Aiguille de la Blatiere West Face / Pilier Rouge

2009-08-19T18:11:00.005+02:00

After going on completely the wrong route last week due to being incompetent, and having the wrong guidebook..... here we are again for a second bash.

Routefinding is infact easy and the climbing superb! Fantastic day out!

Here are some snaps of Ben and Mel who came out for adventure wednesday.

Up on the first pitch, this route is great with good steady but sustained climbing.

Mel and Ben ending up on the upper slab pitch after a very cool little steep wall. Great atmosphere.

Mel arriving at the 6th Belay...sun coming out

4 long abseils from the top and down we go....

This place looks like it needs a bit of time spent on it with some stunning lines such as Majorette Thatcher etc.

Aiguille de la Republique

2009-08-17T19:26:00.006+02:00

The Team

Will after the '@£$%^&*' Step

Jon and Wilson

Monday 17th August

Comedy couple of days out with John and Will today, always a good crack climbing as a 3! This time we headed for the Envers hut which I have not been to before. A great haven of quiet from the bustle of the summer. Here there is a load of rock climbing....a good few weeks worth, climbing and living out of the tent.

Having a bit of a deadline, John needed to get the last Montenvers train down today as he had to pick up the missis in Geneva. Having arrived at the hut after the endless ladder stairway, it became apparent that the route was actually quite long and quite an undertaking. With a fast party doing it in 12 hours (hut to hut) last week. We were hoping we could turn this around in about 6-8, leaving us time to get down.... Our wake up time changed from 5am to 3am... bugger.

Feeling very punterish this trip making a whole heap of standard schoolboy errors that had disappeared since I started doing a load more routes out here. (going the wrong way in the morning, forgetting which bedroom we were in, underestimating how the route would take....etc)

So we decided to stick with the route, despite the fact that we probably couldnt commit to climbing it all. Turned out to be a fantastic alpine day with loads going on and a really great recce of the whole back of the Grepon, Charmoz, Republique, Roc and satellite spires. This means next time will be really quick.

Point to note: alloy crampons are shit for anything but ski touring (and thus keeping in the sac).... I guess we were expecting a wee snow slope, turned out to be a fair amount of ice on route.

Had a bit of a stinker on the way down, could have been more serious than it was but was recovered in fine style ;) Basically the last 4 abseils are not in the direct fall line so require a bit of care. Ended up going for a bit of a ride with a free abseil after an overhang then a bit of a sketchy hinterstoisser to find a peg which was still about 5m from the actual belay. Managed to get the other boys to get back on the ab route but then I was stranded. This is the same ascent for the Grepon>MDG so info is in the guidebook and would be useful to know incase you had to bail on the above route.

Descent Beta......

From the bottom of the Couloir. Descend to the obvious belay block at the top of the jammed block pitch (tat and maillon). Abseil 60m rope length to cord with a maillon (we downclimbed from here to a block on a terrace with yellow tape and a maillon) you see this on the ascent. From here abseil to a large terrase where you would expect to see a bolt loweroff going straight down the face...but it isnt there!!! About 45m down this abseil the 2 x bolt belay is on the right (looking in) about 15-20m and is hidden around a corner of a block...difficult to spot. Good to find as these are bomber abseils and there are 4 to the snow slope. We used 60m ropes and this would be advisable for this descent.

WARNING ABSEIL NO.1 - It would make sense for the abseil line to be on the fall line. It isnt! It is crucial here to stick to the arete and veer right to find the abseil which is on 60m just. I went down the fall line only to find no belay! I think if you abseil the correct way you will find an appropriate abseil inbetween making 4 abseils in total from the first bolted ab.

Abseil Number 2 - Goes down past a bolt and then the belay is on the left looking in under a roof.

Abseil Number 3 - Straight forward down into the bergschrund.

Great day out, looking forward to going back to finish it! I think now we have the beta we can do these sections in the dark for both the Grepon > MDG and the Republique and start nice and early!

Thanks John and Will for top day out!

Off the glacier and straight into it

Careful on the ab's

Help.... me being rescued after abseiling the wrong way!

Boom'o The alps are falling down still....

August Fever

2009-08-13T22:00:00.003+02:00

Wow its busy here in Chamonix!

We went up to climb the Cordier Pillar on Tuesday night (bivvy) got there to find at least 7-8 other groups all going for the same. Decided to leave it for september and go route finding on the Pillar Rouge (with difficulty)....

better luck next time I hope!

Looking forward to September when I can get out every day and its more quiet!

La Joux Cragging

2009-08-09T18:26:00.003+02:00

Perfect day at work today with a knock off time of 1pm.

Glen and I decided to head to La Joux for some chilled out cragging. It was quite hot, not too sweaty!

This crag always has a low crux then eases off - was good to finish on some more sustained routes.

Routes:

- 21 and d'abnegation, 5C

- T.L.Y, 5C

- Chulilla Pearl, 6A

- ENSA- Marco Troussier no.1, 6B

- Volage, 6B

- La beaute du peche, 6A

Ecole des Echelles - Montenvers Cragging

2009-08-06T16:23:00.005+02:00

Thursday 6th August

A day out cragging in a spectacular location.... not entirely alpine adventure but a spectacular crag with a spectacular view.

Here we are at the Ecole des Echelles which is a 10 min approach from the Montenvers Railway. Great granite slab climbing up to 6B+ on the lower section then harder on the upper.. Though 6B+ slab was quite enough today. Delicate but somehow also athletic....

Notes for logbook...

-Adieu Siberie (D+ 90m 5B) - Could climb this all day long

-Buddha-bar (TD 110m 6A) - Great 5C lower section and good upper 6A crux

-Vertical Tango (TD+ 45m 6B+) - Awesome thin climbing!

Eperon des Cosmiques Voie Rébuffat

2009-08-05T16:41:00.005+02:00

Wednesday 5th August

Everyone is in town today! A busy Vallee Blanche City!

Great to get back on the Granite. 4th Pitch starting up the steep grooves and cracks that soon turn slabby.

D+ 150m (V and A1)

Fun half day out today with Rick - wanted to utilise the liftpass so we went up the midi. Have done the Rebuffat route on the South Pillar of the midi with Byron a couple of year ago, so we decided to go for the Eperon des Cosmiques and then finish up the Cosmiques Arete. Again the Rebuffat route provided fun climbing in the lower section through the roof then awesome IV/IV+ climbing on solid granite jams for a couple of pitches. Stunning climbing on lovely sun baked rock. The climbing finishes on a small ridge that can be linked up to the join to the bottom of the second abseil with a bit of scrambling.

A reminder that it is August.... traffic on the Cosmiques!

Easily home in time for chillaxing and beers

L'Aiguille du Pouce South Face

2009-08-04T22:10:00.006+02:00

Tuesday 4th August

The South Face of the Pouce

A couple on the 'Cafe Pouce' striking 6B line up the centre

Indecent exposure

Voie des Dalles (TD- 400 m.)

A bit optimistic for the first proper warm up day but we decided to go for it from the first Flegere lift. Access was a 1.5 hour pull up scree then down choss to the face. Routefinding started not so well but we got there after a little while. Great, sound slab and delicate climbing on holds facing the wrong way most of the time.

Index Chairlift 8.15am - Bottom of Route 10am - Summit 3.45pm - Index Chairlift 5.20pm (phew)

Really fantastic massive action packed day out!

Cool traverse

More alpine posing!

p.s. climbing felt quite tough in parts!

Le Fayet & Servoz Cragging

2009-08-04T22:03:00.004+02:00

Monday 3rd August

Rick is over for 4 days, so got a 4 day session of climbing lined up with a nice little gap off work. As we only had half a day today, we headed down the valley as rain was due. Climbed out the Le Fayet lower crag (with hoards of people!) so headed to the upper crag. Steep and slimy was the name of the game and I struggled up some desperate thing! Not my bag!

Rick seconding through the slimy, slopey, soapy route on the upper crag - another fellow frigger to our left.

Steep 6B+ type stuff going on here

We then ended up at Servoz Crag before it rained. Rick ran out a long 6A/6A+ route with some great jugs to heave on at the top!

The Arete des Papillons (Butterflies ridge)

2009-07-29T15:33:00.003+02:00

Mel and I went out on the Chamonix Aiguilles, the Papillons Arete which leads eventually to the Aiguille du Peigne. We decided to go home for drinks after doing the arete, which seemed pretty normal. Amazing, sometimes exposed climbing with a few nice scary/interesting sections! Wednesday club going well!

Moving together with Mel on the last sections

Easy ridge scrambling

This shows the true scale, look for the person in red at the bottom of the pic!

Think this is a photo of me about to enter the 'letterbox', from where you just don't want to leave.

Also found this, a cool video of the route from TVMountain

Video from TV Mountain

Voie Frison-Roche & Crakoukass

2009-07-29T15:19:00.003+02:00

Team 'Mountain Drop Offs' went out today for some hot rock on the Aiguille Rouges. Another route on the must do list was the Frison Roche, so up we went. Great climbing, found the crux tricky! Then amazing and beautiful climbing on the final pitch, I think this is one of my favourtie pitches of climbing! Stunning moves.

After, we had time to get on another route, so we headed for Crakoukass, a relatively new route (2000 ish), halfway down the Charles Bozon piste. Didnt want to walk down so summited the first two pillars then bailed to get the cablecar. Magnificent, exposed 'monolith' climbing!

Straddling the monolith, picture doesnt show it but this is a stand-alone pillar that just got Andy and I sat on top!

Topped out on the Frison Roche

Up the exit corner, beautiful 5c climbing

Andy working his way up to the 6a crux pitch

Andy topping out!

Chapelle de la Gliere

2009-07-22T17:33:00.004+02:00

Mel on the 'Razer', stunning exposure, wind blowing the ropes all over.

The summit of the Aiguille L'Index, popular as ever!

Was hoping to go for the Papillons Arete and the Peigne today but the weather wasnt looking great. So we headed for the Aiguille Rouge with another Chamonix Classic for Wednesday Club... The Chapelle De Gliere a 400m rock route (10-12 pitches) that mounts the south Shoulder of the Gliere, over the 'Razer' (doesnt sound good with ropes involved) and onto the 'Chapel' of the Gliere. A 20m pinnacle which offers great exposed climbing.

We boshed out 8-10 pitches and moved together a bit before the clash of thunder and rain came... the wind had threatened to blow me off the famous 'Razeur' and by the time we made it to the bottom of the pinnacle the rock was wet and we decided to abseil aroudn the summit. Shame, but the right decision as it rained for a wee while after.

Made it back to the Index lift for 1pm....

Some really nice climbing on route. I would love to do this route again or any of the alternatives nearby.

Down a Crevasse

2009-07-21T14:54:00.002+02:00

On Purpose...

Went with Jen, Tom and Jules to do some Crevasse Rescue Training up above Le Tour by the Albert Premier Hut. What a great day out. Nice walk up followed by some training setting up the crevasse rescue hoist, prussiking out and looking at ice anchors.

I decided not to go in the hole for the second year runnning!

Tom went quite deep (to the point where we couldnt actually see him) ... check out the photo!

Summer Snow Sprinkling

2009-07-18T20:50:00.005+02:00

It has rained really hard for the last 2 days here and putting snow from 2000m+. Fortunately I have been at work. This has given me the chance to finish off the route list with a few tweeks....

Conditions are going to be a bit sketchy for the next day or two until we have found out how much snow has come down. Looking forward to Monday when we might get chance to go up the mountain!

Pic from the balcony coming soon when we can see the mountains!

Any beta on the routes gratefully accepted! Also need to get out cragging as I am so weak right now!

For now here is another picture I found, this is of me at some point on the rock section of the Frendo from earlier this week...

THINGS TO DO

Summer:

Chamonix

Contamine Route, Point Lachenal

Gervasutti Pillar

Forbes Arete Chardonnet

Kuffner Arete Maudit

Petit Jorasses West Wall

Elsewhere

La Meije Traverse

NW Pillar Cengalo

Salbitschjen

Cassin Route Piz Badile

Chamonix Aiguilles

Aig du Peigne - Papillons arete

Aig du Blatiere

Charmoz-Grepon Traverse

Cordier Pillar Grand Charmoz

Envers Aiguilles

Dent Crocodile Envers Side

Aig du Plan Envers Side

Easy Jaunts

Petits Charmoz Traverse

N Face of Tete Blanche and Petit Fauche

Aiguille de la Perseverance

Multi Day Trips

Moine East Face combined with Petit Jorasses West Face (2/3 Nights)

Frendo Spur

2009-07-14T15:18:00.008+02:00

Well its about time we got on this Chamonix Classic...

After finding the right combination of someone to climb with, having the days off work, having the right weather and the right conditions and being reasonably fit we decided to head out onto the Frendo Spur after little preperation on Sunday night.

The route is an uber classic 1200+m route up the North Face of The Aiguille d' Midi. Amazing access from the middle station, the route climbs the obvious 4th Spur (Frendo) that tops out on a very sharp snow ridge before steepening up to finish on the famous Midi snow arete before a ride home to Chamonix. An awesome mountain route with no descent! Perfect.

We decided part of this trip would be the bivi, Chris having recently had Jack (son) needed to get some sleep so what better place to do this but 2000m above Chamonix on a lovely little rock ledge. And Chris really did come packed for the bivi with a very thick (old school style) thermarest.... I packed for the 'light, fast and stupid' and managed with a bit of suffering on a roll mat I have ad for about 15 years (about 4mm thick!)...

The climbing was great, lovely easy terrain with short sections of difficulty which provided nice sections of climbing when you were about ready for them.

We took a 60m single rope which meant we could just run out huge pitches, rock shoes also meant the climbing was a complete pleasure and we could free the upper crux (the lower crux is actually quite easy) - which was also a lovely bit of climbing. Higher up brought another crux which was defiently an aid section so we stepped in the sling and up we went. This can be avoided by taking lower ramps.

With the first midi lift bringing us to the Plan d'Aiguille by 6.45, we made the bottom of the route for 8.30am and got to the bivi about 2.30pm...this meant we could achieve a good 15 hours of chilling out on the bivi! Magnificent.

A point for reference, this bivi spot can receive 3G signal for those wanting to piss friends at work off on facebook.

The morning and a bit of a sleep-in meant we were on out way by a lazy 7am. The snow arete was very exposed and at this point we were glad to of had the rest we did. Up we went and the traversing started, Icy sections and rotten snow... the condition was not excellent but we could move safely with Ice Screw protection until things eased and we finished up the snow ramps to the Midi mid station (we took the right option).

A quick tourist dodge got us onto the first lift we could get on (about 11am) and we made the Petit Kitchen by 11.30. Espresso, Espresso, Coke, Heineken, Steak, Chips, Egg followed..... Perfect.

Awesome route.... get it done before the snow goes on that last section and you are left with quite brittle and sketchy Ice.

Cheers Chris for not falling off when we were moving together, and for the most chilled out relaxed Alpine Route I have ever done!

Broken Legs.. A reminder that it hurts

2009-07-10T11:00:00.003+02:00

Think back to a post I did in may : http://guysclimbingblog.blogspot.com/2009/05/broken-legs.html

Where Chris was pretending to have broken both of his legs as I rescued him from a crag....

Well he has actually broken both of his ankle/feet... Bugger

Get well soon Chris.

Lets hope for no more climbing accidents and maybe we can remember that it hurts when you hit the floor..... ouch

Aiguille L'M NNE Ridge

2009-07-10T10:50:00.002+02:00

In the process of getting back in the swing - took advantage of the overcast weather and went for some middle mountain action on the L'M. Great because we get an ideal view of this peak from the balcony and it is the leftmost Aiguille on the list! Frendo next up then its just a case of getting all of the routes inbetween!

Went with Mel who is currently on climbing rehab after Chris's accident, some cheeky pitches (namely the offwidth one) but otherwise a real nice day out.

First train up the Montenvers and then back before the last train.

Midi Plan Traverse

2009-07-08T16:53:00.003+02:00

7th July

Went out with Chris and a few of his friends for a trip on the Midi-Plan traverse, I havent done this before so was pleased to go out for a nice 'dangerous walk'. Looking forward to going climbing. Have just bought the english versions of the Aiguille Rouge Piola guide and the Envers des Aiguilles english version Piola guide, look like there is another few lifetimes worth of climbing to be done!

Hoping to go for a jolly on the Aiguille L'M tomorrow to get back in the swing of things!

Summer Plans

2009-07-02T21:03:00.005+02:00

Ok, so this isnt quite the view from the balcony.... but I am looking at the same view (but from lower down).

On the right we have the Aiguille du Midi and the left is the Grand Charmoz. Further left still brings the Aiguille l'M.

So here brings the Summer challenge. Climb all of the Aiguilles I can see from the balcony. Maybe not all of them, but all which have great lines on them. Including some Whillans/Brown specialities and some awesome looking traverses.

Things I fancy.... (get these rock routes out before the winter comes)

Contamine Route, Point Lachenal

Cassin Route Piz Badile

Gervasutti Pillar, Tacul

Frendo Spur, Midi

NW Pillar Cengalo

Forbes Arete Chardonnet

Kuffner Arete Maudit

Aig du Peigne via?

Aig du Blatiere via?

Cordier Pillar Grand Charmoz

Dent Crocodile Envers Side

Aig du Plan Envers Side

NNE Ridge, Aiguille L'M

Couturier Coulouir, Verte (or maybe save until Winter)

Working 4 days a week here which leaves a good window of opportunity before committing to Alpinism for September!