End of season - What happened?

22nd May

So I think it is safe to say that is time to move on, we had a great 18 months or so in Chamonix and got loads done. We aren't going to stick around this summer - moving back to the UK to get a bit of work and get strong on the climbing front with my mate Byron ready for Yosemite in September.

I guess it is time to think back a bit to what we have achieved this winter... It was very different than last year in a way that I worked more, the snow was not quite so epic and the climbing was not easy. Still, with the experience of my first year it meant that when we did get chance to go in the mountains we made it worthwhile. We learned a lot about conditions and how each month changes your objectives.

The highlights!

December :

Arrived in mid December, to find a decent amount of snow. It was time to get the ski legs back so spent some good days cruising around resort and especially on some tasty laps on the Plan d'Aiguille

Carl eating snow, good times at the Grand Montets.

January :

Needed to nip up to Scotland to run a couple of winter skills courses. What a season they had up there! I hear people are still ski touring high in the Cairngorms - good effort! Upon my return I was ready to get stuck into my season. Had some great runs down the Envers du Plan and the Toule glacier. Climbing conditions never seemed to be up to scratch in the mountains, and we always prefer alpine climbing rather than valley ice. So we took up steep skiing. Our first outing was the 'Dru Couloir' by accident. We were still keen to set off where we left last year and despite the temperatures high up, went ski touring. It was nice but really hard work, best to be left for late Feb > March. Our enthusiasm here took us to Mont Velan a beautiful peak I skiid past last year and the Breche Pusieux.

Plum on the Mont Velan tour

February :

I had wanted to do the Cosmiques Couloir all last season but never felt up to it, hadn't been skiing that long afterall. Anyway, february started with Plum and I skiing it in great snow. It was fantastic and really addictive. I think we found ourselves a new hobby for the winter. We were still on the look out for some winter routes to do, things were in condition but we were holding out for improvements come March. We had a load of great skiing in March, especially the Combe du Pouce with Glenn and Plum. Decided to get stuck into a bit of valley ice and climbed the direct version of the EMHM icefall from which I got a return of the chilly fingers. Good times.

The EMHM

Skiing the Combe du Pouce

March :

The snow was fantastic, great days out in Courmayeur skiing the steep trees and untracked powder. Loads of mates out this month, good to spend some time with you all! Had another steep ski on the Capucin Couloir with Andy, quality day out. Our eagerness for alpinism was still strong. We had a piss poor attempt on the Bettembourg Thivierge but a cold night and schoolboy errors got in the way. We decided to lower the grade a bit and stand on a mountain, it had been so long - we traversed the Aiguille du Chardonnet. A beautiful peak. Rick came out on his splitboard, more touring to come!

Heading for the Bettembourg Thivierge

April :

A busy month. Loads of wee trips as work had quietened down. Loads of powder still to be had on routes like the Col du Passon. unfortunately for Rick, he nipped away on a stunning week where Plum and I had the Cunningham Couloir and the Barbey Couloir (from the Aiguille d' Argentiere). More skiing with the Col de la Buche and the Col de Belvedere where Plum took a wee ride down an icy slope. The 3 cols again and some Vallee Blanche rock cragging was great fun and made for mixed adventure days out! A couple of highlights towards the end of the month was the Lafaille Goulette and we ski'd to the top of Mont Blanc! One of last years goals.

I think this month was the best! With the highlight, skiing the Barbey face from the Aiguille d'Argentiere.

Lafaille Goulette

Entering the Barbey Couloir

The 'Bosses' ridge.

May :

Back to the UK again for another taste of home. Had a weekend on Stanage before returning back to Cham. Rain had set in for the spring, but once it had cleared we had a few jollies includign the Aiguilette d'Argentiere and general cragging. Had a fantastic trip down the valley to the Pierre A Voix which hosts some fantastic sport. Recently, with some good weather Plum and I enjoyed the Burnier Vogler Couloir on the NW face of the Aiguille d'Midi. Just yesterday we attempted once again to do something a bit daft and walk into the Argentiere refuge for some more Alpinism. Unfortunately leaving ski's at home was not the best idea as there is stil la heap of warm soft snow up there!

Burnier Voger Goulette

So thanks everyone who I have been in touch with this winter for great tips & trips, route knowledge, days out and beers. Thanks to Plum for holding ropes, been a great Alpinist and top quality mountain Comrade, roll on Alaska. Thanks to Pelforth and the Vallee Blanche Bar for good apres, headaches and aborted routes. Thanks to Jennifer for good Shepherds Pie and calming my frustration when it was raining for 16 days. Thanks to all mates' in Chamonix for all good times!

It's time to move on somewhere else for more adventure. I will be back very soon as the tick list has only got longer.

Burnier Vogler Goulette

17th May: Went for a ski on the Vallee Blanche to have a look at snow conditions.

18th May: Burnier Vogler Goulette : Aiguille du Midi NW Face.

At last, back into the swing of things. Somehow, the lethargy of sitting around in the valley seems to take over and ruin the 'psyche' a little. So today we chose to do a little route off the midi which we could do in a day.

Plum traversing to the start. Looking at the photo, I can't believed we skiid the couloir a couple of months ago!

A very dry/thin first ice pitch!

Once again, we abseiled off the bridge of the Midi and descended about 300m in total to the start of the Burnier Vogler Goulette. Infact, we traversed into the route from about halfway up the first pitch.

Having no knowledge of the condition, we started up the route - very little ice in the first pitch making for some interesting mixed moves. The second pitch started up nice with a good small section of 80 degree ice then ice/snow.

We moved together for what would be a couple of rope lengths to the final pitch, here we found loose snow covered rock. Not ideal, but bearable. Finished up the Cosmiques Arete. Great day out!

Plum coming up the first pitch

We moved together through the middle pitches, good snow - not to deep!

Aiguille d'Argentiere : Barbey Couloir

6th April: Aiguille d'Argentiere : Mileau Glacier Ascent, Barbey Couloir Descent (NE Face)

Today's itinerary was fairly massive as we wanted to do a bit of fitness and acclimatising.

Grand Montets > Aig Argentiere > Ski Barbey Face > Fenetre Saleina > Col du Tour > Take the Col Passon ski descent to le Tour.

Ascent: approx 1500m Descent: approx 4000m

aka Guy and Plums Trois Cols or le Nouveau start to the Haute Route.

Today's descent, the Barbey Couloir on the E face of Aiguille d'Argentiere. 1000m TD ski. 50 degrees at the top for 30-40m then 45 for the rest.

Another party jumping into the next couloir over.

Plum striding out over the summit. Mont Dolent in the background

Me anxiously dropping in from the top. Babbing my pants.

Plum enjoying some turns, then more turns, then lots more. Long couloir!

Opens out towards the end.

Aiguille du Chardonnet - SE Couloir

19th - Aiguille du Chardonnet SE Couloir AD 400/500m. Descent - Ordinary route then ski to Le Tour

Great day out, it was about time to get on a summit so we picked an easy line up the South side of the Chardonnet with the plan to ski out to Le Tour. Turned out to be quite a long day. The ski ascent was icy, the bootpack was quite soft but not too bad and the ridge to the summit was kinda terrible.

Skin up to the Chardonnet Col, the route starts up the second main snow cone on the left. This route is skiid also. We decided to continue up mixed ground to the summit. About 600-700m of uphill to here. For those looking to ski, its in great condition!

400+ metres of solo then a pitch of fun mixed climbing took us to the Forbes Arete

We finished up the last 100m or so of the Forbes Arete, crap soft snow slowed progress but there were a few nice mixed moves on the way to the summit.

The ordinary route down. Snow descent followed by 'hunt the abseil points'. We found them anyway and made 4 abseils to the col before skiing to Le Tour.

Nice to get out on the mountain more this week. Maybe more of this to come now we are nearly into April.

Aiguille Verte: Couloir Couturier

Green line, Bettembourg-Thivierge. Red line, as far as we got :(

15th-16th March

Yet to do any Alpinism really yet this winter, Plum and I headed up to the Grand Montets to stay for the night with the aim to climb the Bettembourg-Thivierge finish on the Couturier Couloir to the summit of the Aiguille Verte. We took ski's with the interest of abseiling the Whymper Couloir and skiing home.

Sparkling Rosé but no pan!

Let's go chill on the balcony at home. On the way down.

Strapping on the ski's for the last stretch of the Couturier

Perfect weather was forecast but with a few cock ups on our behalf (forgetting a pan to cook with, my ski flying off down the mountain at 4.30am, not managing to fit in the warm toilets to sleep so bivvying out in the -26 temps etc) we decided to bail off the route after getting beasted by spindrift and strong winds.

We managed to get just below the 'rock fin'. Snow conditions were good and it turned out to be a nice day as expected but not until lunchtime. We just weren't feeling the love today (I think it would have been pretty windy towards the top), so bailed out on Abakalov's until we decided to put our ski's on for the last 200m or so.

Still..... more good weather this week. Might go over to the Chardonnet. Boss de Bosses tomorrow!