Big Walling in the Peak

26th June: Big Wall Training

After a morning of frigging around at Yarncliffe and aiding a couple of cracks. We sat back, had a think, picked up some gear and got the wisdom from Scott. We then went to Millstone (first bay) with our newly bought cord to set up our jumar systems and play with the fifi!

Playing 'Pull the Pig'

Welcome any advice here! So the jumar setup for cleaning aid pitches. Two jumars, right and left handed. One piece of 5metre 7mm cord. Right hand longer than left, one foot on lower left jumar Right jumar at arms length. Central hub connected with a larks foot to belay loop.

Byron opts to go for the higher left hand. Pretty quick and efficient. Must remember to tie rope off every 5-10m - I am sure I will be remembering to do that! Bought these locksafe carabiners for this. Counter intuitive to open so that's a relief.

Any ideas???

Originally we played with 1 fifi hook to get higher on a piece of gear and enable a more stable position when high on gear. However, played with this technique today.... Need to experiment more.

2 etriers, 2 daisy chains, 3 fifi hooks. larksfooted to harness. Ends joined with a carabiner and a fifi hook on each end. A fif hook also attached close to belay loop.

When high on the first runner... reach as high as possible and:

1) clip gear with a quickdraw and clip in rope
2) hook fifi/etrier/daisy on gear
3) test and weight gear by moving bodyweight onto etrier
4) hook harness fifi onto daisy chain for stability as move up etrier.
5) get as high on etrier as possible and place a high piece of gear
6) clip gear with a quickdraw and clip in rope
7) pull daisy chain up therefore pulling first fifi off the first piece of gear
8) Repeat. Found this pretty easy to place gear 1.5-2m away from your previous piece making progress efficient.

Out comes the pro traxion. Simple, attach pig to traxion. attach self to power point with sling (dynamic rope from lead line will be better here if you leave enough slack). Jumar attached to belay loop. Jump off wall ... repeat.

Roaches Climbing

Just out for a nice day today at the Roaches with Carl. Did a few top routes including the classic Valkyrie.

Carl chilling out at the belay

The last step on Valkyrie

The Neb finish on 'Technical Slab'

A Nexus Plexus holiday with A Dream of White Horses

Abseil into A Dream of White Horses

Paulo in the Concrete Chimney

The stunning final pitch, don't look down....

After our little disaster and a broken finger for me last week, we have been out quite a bit. A few bits and pieces of work and lots of play.

Sunday : Froggatt, to be expected, sweaty and warm grit! Not pleasant, still we were after slabby routes to prevent the finger strain so Byron and I did Trapeze Direct, 3 pebble slab, 4 pebble slab and 2 sided triangle.

Four pebble slab is a funny one, graded E3 5C, but I think if you are happy on slabs and can trust your feet it feels OK. The gear is reasonable too. On the other hand, it could go terribly wrong as you would hit the floor if you fell. Felt more like E2 5B.

Monday: Gogarth, had the drive over with Paulo and climbed A Dream of White Horses. Stunning situation, nice climbing. Beautiful day out.

Tuesday: Went to the shady Plexu buttress on Dinas Mot and climbed Plexus and Nexus. NExus has an amazing first pitch, great climbing and a wild 3rd pitch! Yuk, them sweaty pockets!

Wednesday: Went to work at Burbage, climbing all day! Nice day for it.

Now it is time to concentrate on some clean aid climbing with Byron. We have got out Etriers through and are going to go have a play in Thor's Cave this weekend! Cant wait!

Just another day climbing...

The Fang Slab (Upside Down!)

I had another day climbing today. Just like any day climbing, we went out and enjoyed the company, fresh air, scenery, aesthetic movements and as usual achieved nothing. I am not being cynical about climbing in any way - you start at the bottom, find a difficult way to get somewhere you can walk up/down and then come down. A big circle of nothingness, ending up exactly where you started. The joy of the sport!

Today however was very special, we did all of the normal things - talked shite, pulled on some hand holds, placed gear, watched Byron take a big whipper.... except this time. We decided that hey, lets not finish the route. Lets leave all of the gear in and then try and abseil this massive overhang to get the gear out. Lets stop for a minute! What were we thinking, of course we couldn't ab the route...we would be dangling in space. We attempted anyway. What a surprise, it didn't work.

So what am I ranting on about! I think it is something to do with form. 2 days ago I was pulling through awesome moves on Vector at Tremadog, Byron and I were having an amazing time on Central Buttress at Scafell - Just yesterday I was struggling but still pulling moves out of the bag on Gogarth Main Cliff... Where did it all go wrong?

So for this very route in the peak, I think next time I will need to:

a) try harder
b) concentrate
c) not underestimate E1

Until next time route!

I haven't posted since I went to the Lakes last week but after having a great Saturday, I went over to North Wales to go climbing with a chap called Stu. Anyway, had a great couple of days and did:

Tremadog:

The Fang (HVS)
Nice top slab

Stu coming up the final arete on the Plum

The Plum (E1)
Heaps of amazing moves

Vector (E2)
Stunning, amazing, pitch 3 wow!

Gogarth:

'Gogarth' Main Cliff (E1)

A very classic Gogarth experience

Scafell Crag : Central Buttress and Leverage

Leverage (E1 5B)

Since leaving Chamonix, have got settled here in Sheffield now. Excited about the summer and loads of trips planned including Lundy, Sea Stacks, Scotland Cragging and possibly Cuillins. I am now blogging work related days out on the Pure Outdoor Blog (http://www.pureoutdoor.co.uk/pureblog.php) and play related things on this blog.

Nice couple of routes on Scafell main crag yesterday.

Good to get back into the swing of things on trad leading.

A 'hard rock' route and a fantastic crag with so much mountain atmosphere Central Buttress is 6 pitches and graded E1. Though the difficulties are really getting over the 'Great Flake'.

Hard Rock Description....

Located high in the centre of the Lake District Scafell Crag has a prominent position in English climbing historically as well as geographically. From the ascent of Central Buttress in 1914 to modern routes by Dave Birkett, the crag has always been at the forefront of climbing in terms of both commitment as well as technical difficulty.

Central Buttress, initially climbed with the use of combined tactics stood for two decades as the most serious expedition in the Lakes. Affected by rockfall in 1994 the original line of Central Buttress is now E3.

After, we headed around to the East side and climbed 'Leverage' E1.

Dome de Chapeau

Me on the slabs before taking a bit of downtime! 6B thin slab, not sure about the name.

23rd May

Ok, so today was the last day. Went cragging at Le Chapeau today. Awesome slabs in a great setting.

Some 'interesting' routes too!

End of season - What happened?

22nd May

So I think it is safe to say that is time to move on, we had a great 18 months or so in Chamonix and got loads done. We aren't going to stick around this summer - moving back to the UK to get a bit of work and get strong on the climbing front with my mate Byron ready for Yosemite in September.

I guess it is time to think back a bit to what we have achieved this winter... It was very different than last year in a way that I worked more, the snow was not quite so epic and the climbing was not easy. Still, with the experience of my first year it meant that when we did get chance to go in the mountains we made it worthwhile. We learned a lot about conditions and how each month changes your objectives.

The highlights!

December :

Arrived in mid December, to find a decent amount of snow. It was time to get the ski legs back so spent some good days cruising around resort and especially on some tasty laps on the Plan d'Aiguille

Carl eating snow, good times at the Grand Montets.

January :

Needed to nip up to Scotland to run a couple of winter skills courses. What a season they had up there! I hear people are still ski touring high in the Cairngorms - good effort! Upon my return I was ready to get stuck into my season. Had some great runs down the Envers du Plan and the Toule glacier. Climbing conditions never seemed to be up to scratch in the mountains, and we always prefer alpine climbing rather than valley ice. So we took up steep skiing. Our first outing was the 'Dru Couloir' by accident. We were still keen to set off where we left last year and despite the temperatures high up, went ski touring. It was nice but really hard work, best to be left for late Feb > March. Our enthusiasm here took us to Mont Velan a beautiful peak I skiid past last year and the Breche Pusieux.

Plum on the Mont Velan tour

February :

I had wanted to do the Cosmiques Couloir all last season but never felt up to it, hadn't been skiing that long afterall. Anyway, february started with Plum and I skiing it in great snow. It was fantastic and really addictive. I think we found ourselves a new hobby for the winter. We were still on the look out for some winter routes to do, things were in condition but we were holding out for improvements come March. We had a load of great skiing in March, especially the Combe du Pouce with Glenn and Plum. Decided to get stuck into a bit of valley ice and climbed the direct version of the EMHM icefall from which I got a return of the chilly fingers. Good times.

The EMHM

Skiing the Combe du Pouce

March :

The snow was fantastic, great days out in Courmayeur skiing the steep trees and untracked powder. Loads of mates out this month, good to spend some time with you all! Had another steep ski on the Capucin Couloir with Andy, quality day out. Our eagerness for alpinism was still strong. We had a piss poor attempt on the Bettembourg Thivierge but a cold night and schoolboy errors got in the way. We decided to lower the grade a bit and stand on a mountain, it had been so long - we traversed the Aiguille du Chardonnet. A beautiful peak. Rick came out on his splitboard, more touring to come!

Heading for the Bettembourg Thivierge

April :

A busy month. Loads of wee trips as work had quietened down. Loads of powder still to be had on routes like the Col du Passon. unfortunately for Rick, he nipped away on a stunning week where Plum and I had the Cunningham Couloir and the Barbey Couloir (from the Aiguille d' Argentiere). More skiing with the Col de la Buche and the Col de Belvedere where Plum took a wee ride down an icy slope. The 3 cols again and some Vallee Blanche rock cragging was great fun and made for mixed adventure days out! A couple of highlights towards the end of the month was the Lafaille Goulette and we ski'd to the top of Mont Blanc! One of last years goals.

I think this month was the best! With the highlight, skiing the Barbey face from the Aiguille d'Argentiere.

Lafaille Goulette

Entering the Barbey Couloir

The 'Bosses' ridge.

May :

Back to the UK again for another taste of home. Had a weekend on Stanage before returning back to Cham. Rain had set in for the spring, but once it had cleared we had a few jollies includign the Aiguilette d'Argentiere and general cragging. Had a fantastic trip down the valley to the Pierre A Voix which hosts some fantastic sport. Recently, with some good weather Plum and I enjoyed the Burnier Vogler Couloir on the NW face of the Aiguille d'Midi. Just yesterday we attempted once again to do something a bit daft and walk into the Argentiere refuge for some more Alpinism. Unfortunately leaving ski's at home was not the best idea as there is stil la heap of warm soft snow up there!

Burnier Voger Goulette

So thanks everyone who I have been in touch with this winter for great tips & trips, route knowledge, days out and beers. Thanks to Plum for holding ropes, been a great Alpinist and top quality mountain Comrade, roll on Alaska. Thanks to Pelforth and the Vallee Blanche Bar for good apres, headaches and aborted routes. Thanks to Jennifer for good Shepherds Pie and calming my frustration when it was raining for 16 days. Thanks to all mates' in Chamonix for all good times!

It's time to move on somewhere else for more adventure. I will be back very soon as the tick list has only got longer.

Burnier Vogler Goulette

17th May: Went for a ski on the Vallee Blanche to have a look at snow conditions.

18th May: Burnier Vogler Goulette : Aiguille du Midi NW Face.

At last, back into the swing of things. Somehow, the lethargy of sitting around in the valley seems to take over and ruin the 'psyche' a little. So today we chose to do a little route off the midi which we could do in a day.

Plum traversing to the start. Looking at the photo, I can't believed we skiid the couloir a couple of months ago!

A very dry/thin first ice pitch!

Once again, we abseiled off the bridge of the Midi and descended about 300m in total to the start of the Burnier Vogler Goulette. Infact, we traversed into the route from about halfway up the first pitch.

Having no knowledge of the condition, we started up the route - very little ice in the first pitch making for some interesting mixed moves. The second pitch started up nice with a good small section of 80 degree ice then ice/snow.

We moved together for what would be a couple of rope lengths to the final pitch, here we found loose snow covered rock. Not ideal, but bearable. Finished up the Cosmiques Arete. Great day out!

Plum coming up the first pitch

We moved together through the middle pitches, good snow - not to deep!

Pierre a Voix

16th May

No post for a while! Have been getting down to a bit of work this month. According to Plum's 'wet/grey' calendar, it has rained every day for 16 days. I have seen the high mountains once or twice in this time. There is certainly a lot of snow dumping down high up. Have heard a few mates getting out on ski's and enjoying the poor vis powder!

Anyway, today we took a ride down the valley, found some dry rock and sun at the Pierre a Voix, just above Sallanches (20 mins from Chamonix).

An amazing little crag, a standalone monolith of rock in the trees. Grades are from 4's through to 7's with the North face being about 15m and the steep south face about 35m+.

Going for the clip

We did about 5 routes each ranging from about 5b-6a+ first real day out climbing so good to get the levers working again.

Weather has come good for now, but still a lot of snow high, so we are going to go play in the mountains these next few days.

A long walk in... Plum goes 'rock', I go 'scissors'

8th May : Vallorcine Slabs and Aiguilette d'Argentiere

Weather still really mixed in the Chamonix valley. There has been a load of snow during the week and still a load of unstable snow. Shame really as the last day of the Grand Montets lift is tomorrow and we were hoping to get up and do a few routes in the Argentiere Valley.

Didnt fancy going high today so we went and pottered around the Chamonix crags. Tom joined Plum and I today with our original plan to head to Barberine, but rain in the night meant it was sopping. So we opted for the Vallorcine slabs, which were also wet but provided a bit of fun in the intermittent rain.


After doing a few pitches we decided to move on to the classic Aiguilette d;Argentiere, a fun little pinnacle about an hour from the Col du Montets. Unfortunately for us, we didnt really pay much attention to the route and ended up heading from the Col du Montets instead of the lower car park and scrambling over most types of awful terrain to get to it.

This results in a grumpy Guy and cravings for bacon sandwiches at the Petite Kitchen. As I lost 'rock,paper,scissors' Plum didn't let us go (I later discovered Plum always goes with stone)

Easy climbing on impressive rock