Saturday, 28 August 2010

Granite and Clotted Cream

23rd-27th October : Cornwall Learn to Lead Course

Wow. What an amazing week Dave and I have just had. I was running a learn to lead climb week in Cornwall. Could not have had a better 5 days of work really. One day rained off (went indoors) and on the other days we visited Sennen, Bosigran, Lands End and Chair Ladder. Dave and I had only one cheeky evening cragging session and during the day we ticked the Classic Rock Cornwall section.

Great week with clients Dan and Antoni.

Dan on Demo Route, Sennen.

Antoni seconding Dan on Cracked Corner, Sennen.

Doorpost, Bosigran

Pen Olver, Lands End

Our final day at Chair Ladder enjoying the classic Terriers Tooth and Pendulum Chimney

Thursday, 12 August 2010

Gogarth, the Pass and Climbing Life

Climbing Summer

I have not posted up here for a long time. And going by the number of hits I am receiving, I assume a few of you are looking for route beta etc and searching through Google. At least all that hard work was worthwhile. Anyway, I have not given up!

Just been in the UK recently. I have had some great days out cruising with mates and working around Swanage, North Wales, Lake District, Peak Grit and the Isle of Skye. This week we have been on Gogarth, North Wales. An amazing place home to some truly absorbing adventurous climbing. Dave Chapman and I found a dry day on Dinas Mot on Monday and we did Superdirect. I have been waiting to do it for ages. It really is an amazing route!

Dave in a great position on Imitator.
(thin moves pulling onto the slab, then it eases!)

Dave at the belay on Lighthouse Arete.
(I got a soaking at the first belay!)

Yosemite Plans

We set off in a couple of weeks. Pretty psyched for it now. Byron and I have been occasionally training and climbing and talking about training (drinking tea). We have been constantly ordering kit which has made it seem like we are not spending a lot of money!

I think we have our system fairly nailed. It is just a case of doing it lots. I have spoke to a few people who have done the Nose this week and they have been really good to have a chat to.

I was planning on climbing about 30 E1's this summer in preparation for our trip. I have not quite achieved this but the list is now around 25 multipitch E1-E2's. Maybe this autumn will bring some trips to Cornwall and Pembroke.

I am going to Cornwall with work next week and am really looking forward to it. I have just bought the new copy of 'West Country Climbs' , another beautiful book from Rockfax. This covers all that you would expect plus Swanage and a nice little section on Lundy. I am working for Highpoint Mountain Guides on a learn to lead week, so driving aside - should be fun.


Alaska plans are fairly slow, if anyone has any inspiration or knowledge or great photos about possible new ascents/descents in the St.Elias range, be in touch. Next stop the Alpine Club library in London.

In the words of Mr.Kirkus, Lets go climbing!