After finding the right combination of someone to climb with, having the days off work, having the right weather and the right conditions and being reasonably fit we decided to head out onto the Frendo Spur after little preperation on Sunday night.
The route is an uber classic 1200+m route up the North Face of The Aiguille d' Midi. Amazing access from the middle station, the route climbs the obvious 4th Spur (Frendo) that tops out on a very sharp snow ridge before steepening up to finish on the famous Midi snow arete before a ride home to Chamonix. An awesome mountain route with no descent! Perfect.
We decided part of this trip would be the bivi, Chris having recently had Jack (son) needed to get some sleep so what better place to do this but 2000m above Chamonix on a lovely little rock ledge. And Chris really did come packed for the bivi with a very thick (old school style) thermarest.... I packed for the 'light, fast and stupid' and managed with a bit of suffering on a roll mat I have ad for about 15 years (about 4mm thick!)...
The climbing was great, lovely easy terrain with short sections of difficulty which provided nice sections of climbing when you were about ready for them.
We took a 60m single rope which meant we could just run out huge pitches, rock shoes also meant the climbing was a complete pleasure and we could free the upper crux (the lower crux is actually quite easy) - which was also a lovely bit of climbing. Higher up brought another crux which was defiently an aid section so we stepped in the sling and up we went. This can be avoided by taking lower ramps.
With the first midi lift bringing us to the Plan d'Aiguille by 6.45, we made the bottom of the route for 8.30am and got to the bivi about 2.30pm...this meant we could achieve a good 15 hours of chilling out on the bivi! Magnificent.
A point for reference, this bivi spot can receive 3G signal for those wanting to piss friends at work off on facebook.
The morning and a bit of a sleep-in meant we were on out way by a lazy 7am. The snow arete was very exposed and at this point we were glad to of had the rest we did. Up we went and the traversing started, Icy sections and rotten snow... the condition was not excellent but we could move safely with Ice Screw protection until things eased and we finished up the snow ramps to the Midi mid station (we took the right option).
A quick tourist dodge got us onto the first lift we could get on (about 11am) and we made the Petit Kitchen by 11.30. Espresso, Espresso, Coke, Heineken, Steak, Chips, Egg followed..... Perfect.
Awesome route.... get it done before the snow goes on that last section and you are left with quite brittle and sketchy Ice.
Cheers Chris for not falling off when we were moving together, and for the most chilled out relaxed Alpine Route I have ever done!
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